I was at a party the other week, minding my own business and sipping on a Coke, when someone said, “Your lashes are so long. Do you use a lash serum? Everyone is using a lash serum these days!” I found this particularly interesting. As a beauty journalist, I’m fully aware that I sometimes get wrapped up in the excitement of the beautysphere, assuming that everyone is as obsessed with all things beauty as I am. So, yes, I think lash serums are a common tool in the kits of those who want fluttery, larger-than-life lashes. But it was interesting to hear my thoughts confirmed – and by someone who’s not particularly interested in an extended beauty routine, no less.
But with the growing popularity of lash serums, it’s important to know the pros and cons. Anything designed to sit near your eyes inevitably undergoes a wee bit of scrutiny, but I’ve seen some real negativity surrounding lash serums recently. One article I read even suggested that no editors want to use them, which I can categorically say is untrue (I consider UKLASH to be my only vice), which is why I’m going to spill ALL the tea. Read on to learn everything you need to know about lash serums – the good, the bad and the not-so-ugly.
What is a lash serum?
While the before and after vids on TikTok and Insta may promise other-worldly results, it’s important to know that lash serums don’t actually make your hair grow longer. Rather, they extend the “growth phase” of your lash cycle before they naturally fall out. They can also nourish, strengthen and protect against breakage, giving the illusion of thicker, fuller lashes.
“Our eyelashes go through a cycle of around three months,” explains Nima Pourian, founder of UKLASH. “During the growth stage, our cells divide quickly to create new hair growth; in the transition phase the hair stops growing and detaches itself from the body’s blood supply, and in the final resting stage the fully formed hairs stay rooted, whilst new hairs begin to grow underneath them.”
Lash serums boost your natural lash cycle, and I certainly notice a difference whenever I use one. Not only do my lashes appear longer, but they definitely fall out less. These serums are often boosted with a host of vitamins, nutrients and protein-supporting peptides too. While actual scientific evidence for the efficacy of lash serums is lacking, you can find anecdotal proof aplenty via friends and social media.
What if lash serum gets into my eye?
These formulas are made to be within close proximity to your peepers, and as such, they’re often made with gentle percentages of ingredients. You might experience stinging or redness if they do get into your eyes, but according to ophthalmologists, this ultimately shouldn’t negatively impact your eye health.
Are there side effects?
Ah, so you might have heard the rumours on TikTok: “Lash serums make your eyelids look dark,” or “lash serums change your eye colour”, which is why you might’ve also heard your green-eyed friends say they’d rather ditch the serums in favour of lash lifts, extensions or plain old fashioned mascara. The reality is this: some lash serums – often older formulas – use these synthetic ingredients called prostaglandin analogues (fatty acids that mimic your body’s natural hair growth hormones). These are super effective at pushing lashes into their growth phase but have been made infamous by their potential side effects in some users, which include skin pigmentation and darkening of your retina. Nowadays, brands that do use these ingredients employ very low percentages, supplemented by conditioning and hydrating ingredients. Plus, ophthalmologists claim that these side effects typically disappear with discontinued application. For most people, lash serums are perfectly safe – they’re designed to be hypoallergenic, after all.
When I first wanted to start using lash serums, I’d bought into the fearmongering vids I’d seen online, and I asked the brains behind UKLASH for their truthful opinions. They told me that the likelihood of experiencing a reaction is low, but to patch test if worried.
Just remember not to overuse and abuse your lash serum. Like with anything, you can have too much of a good thing. Nima explains, “It’s not necessary to use every day after achieving full results. It could lead to quicker lash fall.” Instead, be sure to follow the instructions on your chosen serum; if it advises you use it every day for 12 weeks, do that, but follow with a period of rest (Nima suggests letting your lashes rest for a few weeks), before moving on to the maintenance phase of your lash journey, where you lower your usage to more of a top-up whenever you need it.
Our favourite lash serums
Now that you’re all informed, here are a few of our fave formulas – from serum-infused mascaras to natural, prostaglandin analogue-free newcomers to the market.
UKLASH Eyelash Serum
My fave, my go-to, my muse for this article. This serum first appealed to me thanks to its fairly friendly price point (some lash serums cost a bucketload), as well as the frankly insane before and after pics on Instagram. It’s lived up to the hype, and is fortified with vitamins, extracts and peptides to nourish and strengthen. It’s really easy to apply, is safe to use with lash extensions or contacts, and there’s a money-back guarantee if you don’t see results.
Hello Lashes+ Volumizing Mascara with Lash Serum
I have three favourite mascaras, each for different reasons, and this is one of them. (The other two are Iconic London’s Triple Threat Mascara, found here, and Huda Beauty’s Legit Lashes Mascara, which you can buy here).
Whenever my lashes are looking worse for wear, I revert back to this formula. I’m a big mascara girlie, so my lashes can sometimes bear the brunt of harsh makeup removal. This fixes them right up and makes me feel less guilty about my mascara-loading habits. It’s powered by biotin and a bunch of lash-loving oils, can be removed with nothing but warm water and it doesn’t smudge! Ideal, because I’m an emotional wreck.
Revitalash Advanced Sensitive Eyelash Conditioner
Everyone knows about Revitalash, right? But what you might not know is that they launched a gentler edition of their iconic formula, which is perfect for those with sensitive, weepy eyes. If you’re the kind of person who gets teary after mascara application, this soothing aloe vera-infused formula is for you.
VEGAMOUR GRO Lash Serum
After bleaching my hair past the point of no return, I turned to VEGAMOUR’s famous GRO Hair Serum, which I was blown away by. So, when it came to lash serum research, I obviously had to try their iteration. It did not disappoint. It’s vegan, cruelty-free and formulated without those hormones or carcinogens that TikTokers warn you against.
Olaplex LashBond™ Building Serum
Olaplex is an authority when it comes to protecting your hair, so their move into the lash market was inevitable. Relatively new to the market, this hyaluronic acid-infused serum stands out as super hydrating with some seriously impressive clinical results. I’m talking impressive as in, “100% reported improvement in the appearance of thicker lashes” after 12 weeks of use.
