From the moment Lily-Rose Depp’s siren-eyed Jocelyn stared down the barrel of the camera, dressed in only a red satin robe and hospital bracelet, in The Idol’s hypnotic opening we knew this sleazed-soaked show would be a beautiful, dark, twisted fashion fantasy.
HBO’s divisive new super-powered show has only released one episode. Yet, a melange of criticism and commentary suggests the show is pandering to the male gaze and creates this torture-porn fantasy that romanticizes abuse has garnered a sordid reputation for the show; a mode The Idol’s costume designer Natasha Newman-Thomas sartorially leans into.
“We wanted to bring a sense of darkness and sleaziness,” Newman-Thomas revealed after the release of episode one.
“You don’t always see pop stars or the underbelly of the music world portrayed in that way.” Indeed, with the pop industry churning out sugar-coated supernovas complete with saccharine sequin body suits and sold-out stadium tours, The Idol’s fashion proves to be a masterclass in subverting this glossy, parasocial relationship.
Much like how Australian designer Caroline Reznik has become a go-to for It girls seeking her sensual, barely-there silhouettes that flirt with the morose and the mysterious, Jocelyn finds her power in flesh-laden and sensual ensembles.
Think: pelvis grazing mini dresses from cult-favorite label Aya Muse (a staple amongst the supermodel set) and a pastel-pink boudoir silk dress with a pearl halter neck.
Even in her pop sensation off-duty life, she’s not walking around in Sandy Liang sweaters like her best friend and assistant Leia (Rachel Sennott), she’s chain-smoking cigarettes through her over-lined lips and practicing choreography in micro mini skirts and nip-slip encouraging bralettes à la the real-life “idol,” Britney Spears circa 2008.
“We were going for something to create a new kind of timeless look, a new iconic superstar, explained Newman-Thomas on the pop sensation redux fantasy. And with the first episode also making a brief appearance from Euphoria’s Maddy Perez (Alexa Demie), it’s a certainty that Sam Levinson’s latest foray will follow a similar meteoric rise for this show’s sartorial offerings.
Below, Jocelyn’s best looks from The Idol.
The Best Fashion From The Idol:
Jocelyn’s “Marilyn Monroe” robe from episode 1
The Idol’s opening scene leaves little to the imagination, with Depp posing for her new single’s promotional shoot in a racy robe sans undergarments.
Show runner Sam Levinson and Newman-Thomas revealed in a post-episode interview that the look was inspired by a 1955 image of Marilyn Monroe posing in a similar provocative position.
Lensed by Slim Aarons, the team revealed that the “elegant chaos” of the picture translated into Jocelyn’s contemporary version, complete with the black lace accents and backless finish.
Jocelyn’s Aya Muse club ensemble from episode 1
Locally lauded Los Angeles-based brand Aya Muse is synonymous with dressing the style set, which makes it a perfectly fitting label for Depp’s Jocelyn to wear for her first visit to Tedros’ (The Weeknd) club. This lightweight knitted number is slightly sheer and features contrasting panels, fitting for those hot and heavy L.A. nights.
Jocelyn’s rehearsal ensemble from Episode 1
During the high-stakes rehearsal scene where nearly everyone in Jocelyn’s camp predicts she’s on the verge of a mental breakdown, Jocelyn wears a Guizio Micro Mini Stretch Skirt and Didu Bra Top.
Jocelyn’s Vanity Fair profile look from Episode 1
After a salacious and pornographic image of Jocelyn leaks online, she sits down with Hari Nef’s Talia, a profiler for Vanity Fair. Her handlers describe her appearing as a “pop tart” in the image, so Jocelyn subtly pays homage to the stolen picture by reclaiming her image by her donning a “pearl necklace” halterneck top.
Jocelyn’s “World Class Sinner” music video look from season 1
While we haven’t seen this custom Nusi Quero appear on screen, the season one trailer teases its appearance during the filming of Jocelyn’s “World Class Sinner” music video. Which version of the song Jocelyn will record the clip for remains to be seen…
Jocelyn’s stadium tour performance look from season 1
In a later episode of The Idol, Jocelyn will take to the stage in a custom Greg Lauren dress inspired by his 2016 collection. The footage was shot during the L.A. leg of The Weeknd’s stadium tour in September 2022.
