Sheet masks undoubtedly went from K-cool to absolute beauty staples of women all over the world. Soaked in rejuvenating, powerful serums, these feel-good foils lead to fresh, healthy skin in minutes. But what is it actually about sheet masks that is so beneficial – aside from the selfie potential? Can they really give us better skin?
Grazia joined a virtual masterclass led by Net-a-Porter’s Global Beauty Director, Newby Hands and 111Skin’s Global Head Aesthetician Milena Naydenov to get the lowdown on all things masks; from top active ingredients to whether or not you should be using jade rollers over sheet masks and why your skin type doesn’t matter (yes, really). Here’s what went down:
Newby Hands:Why are sheet masks popular?
Milena Naydenov: More and more people understand that what you do at home is important. Proper skincare at home will give you better results than a once-a-month salon treatment because our masks have more advanced ingredients that give instant results.
Newby Hands: What is it that makes sheet masks different from cream masks?
Milena Naydenov: Sheet masks are much more convenient and are also much more effective. They give you more hydration and lifting, and minimise wrinkles instantly. The technology is much more advanced; think hydrogel masks or biocellulose masks which feel like a second skin. In the past, liquid and cotton sheet masks soaked in serum were popular. Now, a serum is mixed with powerful ingredients wrapped in, for example biocellulose, which is 500 times finer than a regular sheet mask and will hold moisture more, giving you more of a plumping effect.
Grazia Notes: FYI, biocellulose is a water-lover grown by tiny bacteria (in a lab) that converts glucose into cellulose, therefore forming a natural fiber. These fibers are then used to make the sheet mask’s fabric, which is 1000 times thinner than human hair and can hold fluids up to 100 times their weight. Don’t let its ultra-thin appearance confuse you: biocellulose is extremely durable, absorbant and biodegradable. Clever. Hydrogel, on the other hand, is a blend of serum and gel. The jelly-like mask drenches you in hydration and has a cooling sensation, but tends to be more fragile.
Newby Hands: You want product in the sheet masks that can really penetrate the skin, such as hyaluronic acid. Which ingredients are particularly good?
Milena Naydenov: Most people will want hydration, reduced redness and an even skin tone; ultimately, we want to give off the appearance of healthy skin. So, peptides are very important: they’re amazing for the skin because they reduce inflammation and repair the skin’s barrier. Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) is great for brightening and calming the skin and works well with retinol-based products. Hydrolysed collagen is another super ingredient – it doesn’t penetrate the skin, but it attracts moisture to the skin’s surface for instant plumping.
“peptides are very important: they’re amazing for the skin because they reduce inflammation and repair the skin’s barrier”
Newby Hands: Do you recommend peeling sheet masks or retinol-based sheet masks?
Milena Naydenov: Skin on our face is made up of different textures, depths and thicknesses. So, I don’t want to do the same peeling under my eyes that I do on my jaw as some parts might be over-treated and that’s a problem. An acid or an enzyme will change the PH of the skin, which we will need to rebalance after. Also, it will take time for cell turnover. I’m not a big fan of the everyday use of those masks. Proper cleansing before any mask is crucial. Skin is an organ and it is there to protect. Our skin needs to be exfoliated so that ingredients can penetrate. Nowadays, even our cleansers can contain acid, so if you have the time, exfoliate!
Newby Hands: 111Skin has a mask for break-out prone skin with different ingredients top and bottom. Why?
Milena Naydenov: It comes in two parts because of its unique formulas to treat different sections of the skin. A lot of times we have spots on our forehead from hair products, so the upper part of the mask is amazing for this. The bottom part treats those spots that you know are coming and are painful. It will take the discomfort and that bumpiness away. When we say blemish, you think you need to have oily skin, but that’s not the case here. People with dry skin will also have breakouts and this mask won’t dry your skin. Sourced from the Swiss Alps, proprietary botanic alpine flowers, which is rich in flavonoids and in antioxidants re-balance the skin’s microbiome.
Shop 111Skin Anti Blemish Bio Cellulose Facial Mask Dhs377 at Net-a-Porter
Newby Hands: So, anti-blemish doesn’t mean skin that is breaking out, but that it is reacting?
Milena Naydenov: This mask is good for skin that is unbalanced. If you know your skin is acting up, it’s great to use this mask. I usually recommend my patients to use it twice a week to control inflammation. But, sometimes your skin acts up and has more spots for ten days. On those days, you can use it everyday.
Newby Hands: You have masks that work quickly and masks that provide actual long-term treatment. Let’s talk about the Rose Gold Brightening Facial Treatment Mask (Dhs356 at Net-a-Porter). If you are going out, this is a great skin booster. It highlights the skin, it’s super brightening and hydrating and gives that rose-gold glow – super beautiful! I store it in fridge; it’s the perfect bad-skin day treatment. It’s a real before-and-after mask.
Milena Naydenov: It’s a mask that everyone should have. If you are going to an event and need an SOS treatment, this is the mask. It’s a hydrogel mask, so it’s both firming and plumping. It contains ingredients that even skin tone, reduce redness, and brighten. It also contains 24-karat gold extracts, which despite common misconception, won’t penetrate the bloodstream, but will improve microcirculation. The mask also contains botanical peptides for skin that leaves it plump, relaxed and nice and even. The smell is divine because of rose extract, which is rich in antioxidants and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. You also feel good and that’s important.
Newby Hands: Sometimes, you have a sheet mask on and one eye mask underneath. Why is multi-masking a great idea?
Milena Naydenov: When going to an event, I want everything to look good and when you multi-mask you target different concerns at the same time. We can also call it mask layering: using a separate mask on my neck and chest. Our skin changes constantly and masks can be very versatile. The more masks we have, the more proper treatment we can give when the condition changes. A great example is dehydrated skin. It doesn’t matter how much water you drink: if your skin’s lipid barrier is disturbed, your skin is not going to hold water in. Stress, pollution and retinol are all factors that can disturb that barrier, so a sheet mask which repairs that barrier is crucial. Basically, sheet masks help skin that it can behave healthy and look healthy.
Newby Hands: Intensive, focused target treatments should be part of our regimen. What is the Celestial Black Diamond Eye Mask?
Milena Naydenov: It’s perfect for all ages and all skin types, especially for the signs of ageing around the eyes. Skin around the eyes is very gentle and needs attention: the first signs of ageing show around the eyes. This mask is made of Dr. Yannis Alexandrides’ signature Hydrogel technology for extreme hydration paired with retinol and niacinamide to target discoloration and rich peptides to minimise fine lines. The eye patch also contains black diamond particles.
“When you use any roller, make sure you have enough time to do it properly because you can create more damage if you rush”
Newby Hands: Should we use beauty tools such as jade rollers over our masks?
Milena Naydenov: Yes, we can. Certain masks won’t stay in place, however, if you use the roller. I recommend biocellulose masks as they won’t shift on the face. When you use any roller, make sure you have enough time to do it properly because you can create more damage if you rush! Roll upwards, do it slow and with a little bit of pressure. It’s great for lymphatic drainage!
Grazia asked…
How often should we use our face masks?
Milena Naydenov: Every day. If your skin is losing that glow or make-up isn’t applying as well as you’d like, it’s time to do a mask!
Should we keep masks in the fridge or warm them before we use them?
Newby Hands: I love this question. Cold is firming and cooling while warming the mask before use is relaxing. But should we do it?
Milena Naydenov: Cooling masks feel nice, but be careful as cold temperatures change ingredients. Warming is also soothing and can be done, but again: really warm temperatures alter the ingredients.
Is there a mask you recommend using before LED light therapy?
Milena Naydenov: You have to make sure light can get to your skin. So, masks that are see-through are the best before a LED mask. Biocellulose, for example, is fine and it’s great before LED masks. Most LED masks, however, apply on completely dry and clean skin. So, if you have the time, exfoliate and then do your masking and serums.
Will masks help with skin conditions like rosacea?
Milena Naydenov: You can use anti-blemish masks and also proper exfoliation. There is a lot you can do, but definitely see a dermatologist for a consultation.
Grazia Tip: If you’re new to masking and are feeling a little overwhelmed by the options, opt for 111Skin’s The Master-Masking Planner (Dhs398 at Net-a-Porter). The kit contains 6 powerful sheet masks for your every need. Happy masking!
Photos: Instagram
