To completely wrap up my sentiments around this magnificent, exuberant, couture collection, I bring you a quote from Paris Is Burning—“I don’t know why y’all gagging. She bring it to you every ball.” That Schiaparelli artistic director, Daniel Roseberry has done yet again. Roseberry has consistently been delivering stellar surrealist collections for the maison, creating some of the most conceptual yet campy garments and accessories while wining over A-list clients like Beyonce, Lady Gaga and Tracee Ellis Ross, for the past two years. This Fall 2021′ Haute Collection is *chef’s kiss!* Titled “Matador Couture”, the collection draws inspiration from the Spanish and Portuguese tradition of bullfighting, with a through-line of shapes that resemble the horns of a bull, color stories reflecting the rich history of Torero—as it’s referred to in Spanish speaking countries—from the rich tangerine, rouge and sky blue color ways and intentional broidery and embellishments indicative of Matador traje de luces.
The collection was also jam packed with some of Roseberry’s design codes like the appendage earrings and adornments, chiseled abdomen/torso relief and his signature ease to couture dressing. The clothes always take on a signature Schiaparelli surrealist lens while also being incredibly form fitting. He’s mastered this conceptual yet extremely flattering, youthful yet decadently formal dressing thing to a “T”.
Tag along with us, as we explore themes and our some of our favorite looks in the collection:
Beyonce’s personal order
As we’ve seen countless times over the past 2 years—like her black, custom Haute Couture 2021′ Grammy’s dress—Queen Bey is a Schiaparelli couture client so I’m sure that she’s having these made to her measurements as we speak.
Floral’s for Fall—actually groundbreaking!
This season Roseberry explored florals but in a sophisticated, surrealist way. From a literal exaggerated rose placed on a black off the shoulder dress—constructed almost in a three-dimensional way that appears as if the rose is growing out the body—to a stunning pink rose appliqué, designed in a way that reads like smashed roses, to a gold sculptural floral corset.
These looks deserve their red carpet moments
This black ball gown with tangerine bust-line shaped like lips with an accompanying train—just screams drama. A Roseberry gown/formal dress is designed always with a surrealist glamour. They take cues from classical silhouettes yet have a distinct edge that sets them apart from any other garment on the red carpet.
Salvidor dalí would be proud
Surrealism is embedded deep in the spirit of the house codes—Elsa was linked to the surrealist group of Paris which included the likes of Dalí, Magritte and Mirò—so it’s only fitting that Roseberry takes it further and further every season. It gets no better than this stunning black, scoop dress with this jaw-dropping gold plated breastplate, conveying the essence of lungs while also conveying the essence of the roots of a tree. This gown is honestly, breathtaking!
While you’re here, get into the stunning, mini-fashion film—Directed by Christophe Tiphaine—below: