All products featured on GRAZIA are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, GRAZIA may earn an affiliate commission.
Storied fashion houses are ushering in a new era, instating a fresh demimonde of nascent talent at the helm. The next generation of designers are stepping into the spotlight, steering the ship and reenergizing heritage labels, incorporating their personal creative perspective while maintain core design codes. The Spring/Summer 2023 season was designer Maximilian Davis made his debut for Ferragamo, while Marco de Vincenzo stepped up to the plate for Etro, Rhuigi Villaseñor took the lead at Bally and Ib Kamara followed Virgil Abloh at Off-White.
Davis presented his first collection for Florentine fashion house Ferragamo during Milan Fashion Week in September 2022 at the renovated Portrait Milano hotel, located within a grandiose seminary from the 17th century, covered in an arresting tone of rusted crimson. Davis implemented a color palette inspired by his Trinidadian roots.
The British designer introduced contemporary silhouettes and developed new heat-reactive fabric that mimicked artist Rachel Harrison’s Sunset Series. Davis uses literature and music as a form of research when it comes to his designs, a technique he learned from former boss, Grace Wales Bonner. The 27-year-old boy wonder’s first designs were shown just six months after the announcement of his appointment as creative director, putting his eponymous label that he launched with London- based incubator program Fashion East on hold.
Etro appointed designer de Vincenzo as its new creative director for women’s, men’s and home collections at the end of May 2022. With his debut collection de Vincenzo aimed to change the current perception of the brand and for the first time in its history, Etro is no longer a family business. The designer stressed that “nobody will use hippie chic or bohemian to describe my first collection.” He emphasized, “Etro is thought of as a print brand, but that is wrong,” he said. “Etro is a textiles brand.”
His first presentation for the Italian luxury fashion house was unveiled during Milan Fashion Week in September with the womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 assortment, where Vincenzo imbued a whimsical element throughout jacquard fabrications, resplendent ombré hues, lace confections and statement-making separates.
One of the buzziest new appointments, founder of L.A.-based luxury streetwear label Rhude, Villaseñor showcased his first offering for the 171-year-old Swiss heritage fashion house Bally with the Spring/ Summer 2023 collection last fall. As Bally’s first creative director in five years, the Filipino designer brought a renewed opulence to the brand with sexy suiting, denim staples and slinky slips. The California-cool creative got people talking about Bally. It-girls like Joan Smalls walked the runway while the front row was filled with famous faces like Emily Ratajkowski. Villaseñor breathed new life into Bally with his fresh and exciting vision.
Kamara debuted his first collection since being named art and image director of Off-White in September 2022. Kamara frequently collaborated with the late founding designer Virgil Abloh, making him the perfect person to continue the brand’s message and carry on Abloh’s immeasurable legacy. The show entitled, “CELEBRATION” boasted a maximalist aesthetic, with a vibrant cobalt blue sprinkled throughout inventive fabrications and unexpected silhouettes.
Alboh passed away in November 2021, leaving behind his role at the head of Off-White and his position as creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton. In February, parent company LVMH announced that record producer, musician, entrepreneur and fashion icon Pharrell Williams would be stepping into the role at Vuitton. Williams’s debut collection will take place next June during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris.
Speaking of new appointments, Gucci surprised the industry in November, when the Italian house announced creative director Alessandro Michele would exit the brand after instating an epochal creative shift. This announcement caused a stir, Michele’s Gucci was wildly successful in pioneering the maximalism trend seen over the past few years. In January, Gucci’s parent company Kering revealed that designer Sabato de Sarno would take over the role and will make his runway debut with the Spring/ Summer 2024 during Milan Fashion Week in September of this year. All eyes will be on de Sarno to see what direction he takes the iconic house.
There’s even more to keep an eye on after British designer Louise Trotter was named creative director at the French heritage house Carven in February, less than two months after exiting Lacoste after her four-year tenure. Her first collection will be during the Spring/Summer 2024 season at Paris Fashion Week in September.
With so many changes to keep up with at beloved luxury juggernauts , it’s never been a more thrilling time to see where the industry is headed. Representing the best and brightest of the future of fashion, this treasure trove of new creative directors is taking the reins and implementing change from the top down at these venerable heritage fashion houses. Young and burgeoning talent have so much to offer with their fresh perspective and new ideas. Going against the grain has proven to be successful. Change is good, change is necessary, and change is what’s going to keep this industry inspiring and exciting.
New For Fall:
Harris Reed
British-American designer Harris Reed has been placed at the helm of 90-year-old Parisian fashion house Nina Ricci. The 26-year-old wunderkind is the youngest creative director for the brand and made his runway debut during the Fall/Winter 2023 season at Paris Fashion Week in March.
Daniel Lee
During London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023, all eyes were on Burberry as the brand’s new chief creative officer Daniel Lee, who showed his first collection after Riccardo Tisci’s departure. He presented an ode to quintessentially British style, with eye-catching cold-weather garments and gear, from feathers and faux fur, to knit canteens, earmuffs and exaggerated trapper hats. He also used the iconic checks and plaid patterns Burberry is known for in bright colorways. Previously, Lee reenergized Bottega Veneta during his helm at the brand from 2018 to 2021.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Known for his sensual, genderless garments, Belgian designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin showcased his first collection for Ann Demeulemeester during Paris Fashion Week in March. Pulling from the brand’s extensive archives for inspiration, Sernin looked back on the trademark tenants of the house to bring it into the future.
Coming Soon
Sabato de Sarno
After Gucci parted ways with creative director Alessandro Michele, it was announced that designer Sabato de Sarno will fill the role. He was previously the Fashion Director at Valentino after stints at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. His first designs for Gucci will show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024
Louise Trotter
Less than two months after exiting Lacoste after her four-year tenure, the British designer was named creative director at French heritage house Carven in February. Her first collection will be presented during the Spring/Summer 2024 season at Paris Fashion Week.
Pharrell Williams
In February, it was announced that music mogul and entrepreneur Pharrell Williams would be taking over as Louis Vuitton’s creative director of menswear following Virgil Abloh. Williams’s debut collection will take place next June during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris.
Read the new GRAZIA Gazette: Spring Fashion edition:
