On February 11, on the 14^th floor of the Woolworth Building—an iconic, neo-gothic skyscraper in lower Manhattan—Joseph Altuzarra hosted 70-odd of his closest friends. The occasion was of course to showcase his Fall/Winter 2024 collection as a part of New York Fashion Week but to also mark his 15^th year in business—a feat in the boom-and-bust cycle that plagues so many players in the fashion industry.

On his milestone birthday, Altuzarra wanted to honour those who had supported him throughout his career—and, refreshingly, there reportedly wasn’t a paid celebrity or influencer in sight. What ensued was not a collection of his greatest hits per say, but rather an elegantly muted and cosy array of cashmere jodhpurs and peacoats, punctured by… ruffles. Yes, in and amidst this somewhat equestrian nod—tapered slacks are indeed reminiscent of European royal horse stables in the early 20th century—accordion collars and sleeves were aplenty.

The first look saw a pair of taupe, belted jodhpurs teamed with a silk cream top—tucked in—with said accordian collar and a black overcoat. Another saw the ruffled collar and sleeves peeking out from underneath a slate grey peacoat. Continuing the subtle circus motif, a sweater and gown with a diamond pattern, and a red coat with gold buttons and a large black bow, were surely pieces plucked from a circus master’s wardrobe many moons ago. After some controversy in past seasons, perhaps the extremely considered guest list and play on garments fit for a striped tent is Altuzarra’s way of saying he’s done with the fashion circus?

Elsewhere, woollen bean-bucket hats were paired with not only cozy coats and boots, but eveningwear as well. Conversely, the headwear-less evening offerings were plunging, delicate and sequinned spectacles (accented with feminine bows and roses), and perfect for an after nine event—or a 1930s gala post a puppet show.