Part of what has made Dion Lee such a global success across his tenure in fashion is the designer’s capacity for expanding on his focused aesthetic. Even with a Spring 2024 collection inspired by construction, the Australian talent manages to surprise with a dynamic array of interpretations on the hardware theme—what he refers to as “Industrial experimentations” in his show notes.

The opening look of a cinched blazer with ring spanner detailing over a crisp white shirt was a grownup take on the utilitarian moods we’ve been seeing everywhere—and teased the refinement Lee is capable of before laying out the full content of his toolbox. Next up, cascading wrenches lined the corsetry on a white button-down bodysuit that was accompanied by tool-belted, leather thigh boots. Lee’s signature ‘constructed deconstruction’ approach took form in slashed blazers with multiple pockets, panelled shirting, and workboots reworked into corsets to turn functionality on its head. Screwheads were employed in lieu of studs and buttons, while laminated denim was Frankenstein’d together for a fresh take on dressed-up denim.

Most looks featured an element of asymmetry, further showcasing the designer’s knack for making the complicated look effortless. While an extension cord handbag that plugged into an outlet tab on the back of pants erred on obvious, the usual severity that often comes with utilitarian-inspired garments was aptly absent. Crushed leather brought volume with bubble-hem skirts and tube dresses—a rare deviation from body-hugging silhouettes that still held that Lee edge.

Though a notable part of the designer’s appeal is in his ready-to-wear pieces that have always provided us with the perfect modern party gear, Lee makes a compelling case with Spring 2024 for the ways his codes can be endlessly stretched far beyond the club. And to bring it home, the show capped off with a raucous party featuring a performance by Ice Spice—all in a day’s work.

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