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When crafting his Spring Summer 2023 collection the Australian, New York-based designer Dion Lee was inspired by biomimicry. The term, dating back to Ancient Greece, describes the way in which humans often look to nature for solutions when solving complex problems. The most often-cited example is engineer George de Mestral, who invented Velcro after noticing the way burrs stuck to his dog’s paws during their daily walks. Lee was so interested in the concept that he named his entire collection after it—’Biochemistry’ officially unveiled at Hudson Yards as part of New York Fashion Week in Manhattan yesterday afternoon.
Lee told press backstage that he wanted the collection to bridge the cap between nature and what he encounters in his day-to-day New York life. Cue: a fabulous body-hugging mini dress that evoked layered monstera leaves, and slinky beige bodysuits with cut-outs that evoked the intricate wings of a moth. Elsewhere, staples from the Lee archive were reworked in modern fabrications and silhouettes—Lee is a natural fit for the Y2K Renaissance—and his much-loved corset tops were reworked in frayed denim and sheer lace. His trademark tailoring came courtesy of low-slung evening trousers, though TikTok is far more likely to fall in love with the Moto-style leather trousers and chunky, Club Kid-esque cargo pants.
Lee is continuing to enjoy his reign as one of Australian fashion’s most important fashion exports. Earlier this years he was tapped by pop queen Rosalía to design every outfit for for her Motomami world tour. A sword-wielding Grimes fronted the brand’s last campaign, and his pieces have been worn by everyone from Megan Thee Stallion to Kim Kardashian and Zendaya. As he steps ever more confidently into that success, Lee seems willing to have a bit more fun. Spring Summer 2023 was a masterclass in cutting and tailoring, but it also belied a desire to get back in the clubs and dance the night away in an unobtrusive outfit that makes you feel sexy. We’ll see you on the dancefloor.
