There’s been a change afoot at Tory Burch over the last few seasons. The enduring queen of modern American sportswear has built an empire with her uncanny ability to blend glamour and practicality. But recently Burch seems to be getting a little more experimental, crafting ready-to-wear collections that that feel particularly tuned-in to the zeitgeist. Fall/Winter 2023, which debuted at the Emigrant Savings Bank in New York City, was yet another example of this. Burch showed a collection that quite literally deconstructed the rules of modern womenswear and rebuilt them in her own image.
Wrap skirts sat askew on the hips, held together with a giant safety pin, ruched day dresses were constructed to look as if they were worn backwards. Top handle tote bags featured “slashed” logos, and shoes were designed with one broken heel. On paper this sounds like a far cry from the polished elegance that Burch has become known for but the end result somehow felt totally correct. The asymmetrical skirts felt effortless and cool rather than starched and prim. The knits — slouchy and mildly lopsided — evoked an off-duty Olsen twin or Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. Much like the Venus de Milo, which was projected onto the walls of the show’s location, Burch showed that beauty is often found in imperfection.
The front row was packed with a formidable turnout of well-heeled women, among them Suki Waterhouse, Claire Foy and Maddie Ziegler. They watched as Emily Ratajkowski and Irina Shayk closed the show in looks that represent the new Tory Burch woman. Shayk, in workwear, wore a sharp textured blazer over a black silk day dress and equestrian-style flat leather boots. Ratajkowski put her signature sex appeal on full display with a busty evening dress, complete with corset detailing and fishnet tights. The two looks showed the duality of Burch’s new vision — pragmatism and sensuality, elegance and boldness. What could be more modern than that?
