On June 4, the fashion set took to the Rue de Moussy in the 4th Arrondissement for what arguably is the most anticipated show of the season. What was once the home and workplace of the late Azzedine Alaïa, now served as a backdrop to Creative Director Pieter Mulier’s first collection at the helm of a luxury fashion house. Not only did the show serve as Mulier’s debut for Maison Alaïa, but it marked the return to an in-person Paris Couture Week after a year and a half.
Noted as the last great courtier of the 20th century, how does one fill such glamourous shoes? By merely opting not to (to a certain extent,) at least according to Mulier. The Belgian designer, known for his role as Raf Simons’ right hand, decided to pay homage to the great designer by taking a step back and letting the garments speak for themselves. Signature alaïa codes including cowl-like draped hoods (synonymous with Alaïa muse, Grace Jones signature style), body-con silhouettes, and wide leather corset belts all were present with an evolved modern touch.
As models walked down the open streets of the Marais framed by a Monoprix supermarket and boulangeries–you can’t help but nod a the contrast of the exquisite feminine designs and Parisien ambiance that is in perfect Azzedine Alaïa fashion. Mixed without rules or boundaries models wore not only couture gowns but ready-to-wear ensembles down the concrete runway an integral to the unique métier of Azzedine Alaïa. The label’s flagship was center stage of the rue while the soundtrack Alaïa collaborated with French musician Nicolas Godin played throughout the hallow streets, matching the harmonious embroidered percussive bells seen on the couture dresses.
Mulier described the collection with three words: “Sensuality, sexuality, and attitude” all combined breathed new life and rejoiced the spirit of Alaïa. The label will present two collections per year, separating from the traditional calendar the collections will be shown for an augmented “winter-spring” (available May-December) and “summer-fall” (available June-November)
