It’s often posited that London is the centre of its own universe. And for two respective weeks in February and September, colloquially known as London Fashion Week, it is. In an abandoned brewery converted into a creative space on the proceeding’s fifth day, an even more condensed microcosm was unveiled. Here, maximalist womenswear label Marques’Almeida returned to the LFW schedule to stage their Fall/Winter 2024 show.

The Portuguese husband-wife design duo, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, delivered a sartorial procession that felt part homecoming and part renegade renaissance. After relocating to their hometown of Porto during the COVID-19 pandemic, the brand has once again placed their high-octane stamp on the city in the place it all began: East London. Not only was this a geographical homage to their burgeoning years, but an ode to their time in the pioneering emerging designer incubator Fashion East. (A decision that helped them take home the prestigious LVMH Prize in the award’s sophomore year in 2015.)

As a result, the past, present and future collided in a clash of textures and tones against the backdrop of their first-ever runway show. Rather rebellious, the brand took a circular mode to unveil its new collection, tapping friends of the brand who had been there since the beginning to model the presentation. (These adherents are fondly known as “M’A girls” and include i-D’s international editor, Frankie Dunn.)

Given that upcycling is a core part of the brand, it was only fitting that reworking the past was included. But rather than this feel like a trite rehashing of tried-and-tested silhouettes, the brand expanded on its origins with unwavering certainty. This unfolded through traffic-stopping ombre denim skirts with raw hems and asymmetrical edges. (Perhaps something Britany Spears would’ve worn to the 2001 American Music Awards after-party.)

Metallics, one of the brand’s hallmarks, emerged in liquid olive sets and a peachy aviator jacket lined with sumptuous shearling. Even floral jacquard fabrics—which perhaps in any other context could seem matronly—appeared like they were dipped in a liquid gloss. This sense of lamination continued across peplum-style vinyl outerwear and a series of satin gowns that protruded from the bodice.

Marques’ Almeida’s return brought a sense of the unpolished maximalism Portuguese style has become revered for (and emulated) on social media. But make no mistake, this collection doesn’t pander to the trend cycle or TikTok algorithms. This was clear in the joy seen on the children’s faces who walked hand-in-hand with some models on the runway. If we were to take a guess, this discernable jubilation was coming from a place of knowing these designs would soon be handed down to them. In converging the old and new, Marques’ Almeida unleashed a cosmos of imagination. Will we see these pieces line the front row of their next show come September? Only time will tell.