With a custom set designed by artist Gary Hume, Burberry Spring/Summer 2025 saw creative director Daniel Lee experiment with the house’s far-reaching heritage, celebrating its unique blend of function and fluidity. The casting, which Lee has made a point of paying extra attention to since taking on his role, included legendary Brit models Edie Campbell and Lily Donaldson, as well as icons like Liu Wen swanning down the runway, while celebrity guests included the likes of Olivia Colman, Jerry Hall and Barry Keoghan.

Unveiled at the National Theatre, the collection—Lee’s fourth at the helm—was “Born of function, grounded in heritage,” as noted in an Instagram teaser. While the glamourous feathered shawls and sequinned halter dresses that appeared on the runway might not quite evoke utility, the rest of the collection was undoubtedly a throwback to early 2000s silhouettes and twists on the outerwear brand’s more robust staples. From cropped military jackets and Capri shorts with heels to glitter-and-frill laden camis paired with low-rise cargo pants, the looks were highly referential to a moment in fashion that is rearing its head again.

Daniel Lee, who has been at the house as creative director since 2022, alluded to shifts ahead in the business, particularly given the arrival of a new CEO amid declining sales.

“Burberry, in its heyday, enjoyed American CEO leadership with a British designer,” he told an outlet. “Hopefully, that’s a synergy we can revive.”

He also ensured to aptly platform the core codes of the house. “I really like the check,” he continued. “I want to treat it as one of the most precious elements of the house, in the way that the trench is.”

After all, when it comes to purchasing luxury, consumers demand a certain level of recognition, and Burberry’s signature check is not only a global brand identifier but also an MVP of both the 90s and the Y2k revival, endearing the house to younger generations instantly.