Nadege Vanhee-Cybulksi takes surprising inspiration in hair for the Hermès Fall/Winter 2023 show with breathtaking results.
In recent months, Vanhee-Cybulksi cut her red locks into a short bob. And as most of us can relate, a dramatic hair transformation, if we’re lucky, can feel like shedding skin or embarking on a new chapter. It naturally dredges up some healthy introspection or, at its worst, an identity crisis. For this collection, Vanhee-Cybulksi wanted to explore the link between our hair and ourselves.
Of course, to tie it all together, models’ hair looked extra luscious and glossy, styled with effortless nonchalance to blend into the clothes — it’s still a question of whether locks were dyed for maximum effect.
The house’s impeccable attention to detail and signature equestrian touches were exceedingly present in its new-season accessories; structured bucket bags, saddle-like shoulder bags and even fringed Birkins. A stand-out thigh-high suede boot came in black, camel, gray, mustard, dark brown and red. Thin belts that we’ve seen in a few shows this season finished off almost half the looks.
But underpinning each look was a sweeping sense of movement. There was a flow created by the silhouettes and fabrics, mimicking the effect of flowing tresses. Chunky cable knits interlocked like braids, ribbed textures and the glimmer of lurex shone like a salon-fresh cut, and hardware on leather pieces was kept to a minimum so as not to disrupt the illusion of a smooth surface.
While its no easy feat bringing something fresh to an almost 190-year-old fashion house, Vanhee-Cybulksi admits she’s not trying to upheave any foundations but rather, build on Hermès’ superior luxury casual codes, perfecting them with each passing season. “I want to keep this tradition of finding the right balance — the pattern and the fabric, I mean,” she said, “I’m the first one [to say] that I love casual, but it’s also important that we are keeping alive the science of pattern cutting and draping.”