You step out of the shower, catch a glimpse of yourself in the mirror, and for a split second your hair looks impossibly chic – smoothed back, gleaming, almost editorial. Then you towel it off and the moment is gone. For a couple of years, fashion’s answer was to freeze that moment in place: hair lacquered flat to the skull, high-shine, not a strand moving. That version just quietly ended. New York Fashion Week wrapped its Spring/Summer 2027 shows this week, and the message from the runways was unmistakable – the perfect slick-back is out, movement is in. What replaces it is not a return to the blowout but something in between, and Paris- and Lyon-based hairstylist Thomas Tuccinardi, a Redken global ambassador, has been describing exactly that softer version for months: slick at the roots, satin rather than glossy, alive through the lengths.
Why the slick-back had to soften – and what NYFW just confirmed
The architectural version had a good run. Earlier this year, at Rick Owens, hair was slicked tight at the roots. At Junya Watanabe, the effect leaned retro. At Chanel, it went iridescent. Sleek hair – sometimes called the wet look – is defined by hair combed back flat against the head with a gleaming, almost mirror-like finish, and for several seasons it was the safest bet backstage.
Then came New York. At the Spring/Summer 2027 shows, which opened with Diane von Furstenberg on September 10, the mood shifted toward hair that looked deliberately undone: loose, lived-in textures at DVF and Rachel Comey, and ponytails at Cult Gaia and Tory Burch so relaxed they looked ready to fall out. At Cult Gaia, celebrity stylist Karim Belghiran built a wispy, looping knot with plenty of movement, finishing the ends with a bonding oil for a glossy touch rather than a gel-set shell. The takeaway from the front row, as more than one editor put it: forget perfect slick-backs. The shine stays; the rigidity goes.
That is precisely the evolution Tuccinardi has been pointing to. According to him, the classic version conveys a sense of control and precision, a highly constructed, almost architectural beauty – which is exactly why it now reads as a fashion statement for evening rather than a daily look. The wet effect, he notes, evokes heat, glowing skin and that post-swim glow, pairing beautifully with natural light and sun-kissed complexions. Into fall, the same shine does a different job: against knits, coats and grey mornings, a satin-sleek finish reads as health and polish rather than beach. Fueled by the quiet luxury aesthetic that has taken over both celebrity styling and social media, the softer sleek look is the one that survives the season change.
The exact technique to recreate the look at home
For designers, sleek hair serves a very specific purpose on the runway. It is visually legible, meaning it never competes with the clothing for attention, yet it adds a strong signature to the overall silhouette. Whether the collection is minimalist, futuristic, or ultra-refined, the style reinforces the aesthetic message without overwhelming it.
But you do not need a backstage team to get this right. Tuccinardi breaks the at-home process into clear, manageable steps. Start with clean, well-detangled hair. The foundation is a hydrating wash routine – think of it as prep work that makes everything else easier. Apply a smoothing treatment or a lightweight base first, then create your part if you want one.
Next, distribute a light-hold product through the roots and along the lengths, combing as you go to flatten everything into place. The key is in the gesture itself: apply a small amount of product very precisely, using a comb to spread it evenly. It is better to build up gradually than to overdo it in one pass, which can leave hair looking greasy rather than glossy. Finish with a hint of shine on the lengths and, if needed, lock the style in with a light-hold spray.
When it comes to specific products, Tuccinardi reaches for Dream Coat and Pop and Lock by Color Wow alongside Shimmer Shine by Kevin Murphy to shape the style. For hold, he relies on Style On Steroids by Color Wow or the Miss Malleable mist by Evo.
How to adapt the trend to your hair type – and keep it healthy
One of the most persistent myths about sleek styling is that it only works on naturally straight, long hair. Tuccinardi firmly disagrees. On short hair, the effect immediately structures the face. On long hair, it elongates the silhouette. On curly or textured hair, the approach shifts toward working with the natural material and strategic placement rather than chasing absolute straightness. The goal is to define curls and eliminate frizz while respecting the hair’s identity. The sleek look should accompany the hair, not force it into submission.
The version that carries into fall is the natural, less rigid one. Tuccinardi notes that the sleek effect is now concentrated at the roots while the lengths retain movement – which is exactly the balance New York’s runways just landed on. Finishes are trending away from high gloss and toward a softer, satin-like sheen that feels more modern and wearable. A very slicked-back, high-shine version still reads as fashion-forward and is ideal for an evening event, but softer, slightly satin variations translate perfectly to everyday life. That evolution toward naturalness is precisely what makes the trend more accessible than ever.
The technical shift behind this lighter feel? We have moved from heavy-hold, stiff products to far more flexible formulas. Newer generations of gels, creams, and serums control without creating that cardboard-like crunch. Their textures are finer and smarter, disciplining hair without weighing it down. Professionals now layer products lightly, building an airier, more mobile finish that still holds its shine. The result feels breathable and thoroughly modern.
As for long-term hair health, Tuccinardi reassures that the sleek style is not inherently damaging when done correctly. The real risks come from using poorly suited products that accumulate residue, or from overly aggressive styling that pulls too hard on the hair fiber. Regular cleansing is essential – a clarifying shampoo can help remove buildup in depth. Continuing to nourish the hair between styled days keeps the fiber strong. As always, the balance between styling and care is everything.
Your new fall hair shortcut
The sleek look is proof that sophistication does not have to mean complexity – and this month’s runways proved it does not have to mean rigidity either. You now know that the version worth wearing favors satin over shine, roots over full-length slickness, and movement over stiffness. The products are lighter, the techniques are forgiving, and the style works across virtually every hair type and length. Whether you are heading into a rainy commute or a fall wedding, this is one trend that rewards precision – and a light hand with the product bottle.
