A model walks the runway during the Jean-Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023 show on July 06, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)

From Marilyn Monroe to Madonna and Julia Fox, the cone bra has had many celebrity fans. A silhouette with roots in functionality, it currently exists as a fashion curiosity. Originally stemmed from the pointed shape of the mid-century bullet bra, the exaggerated torpedo bust has received creative interpretations from Jean Paul Gaultier to Christopher John Rogers, and Schiaparelli’s current creative director Daniel Roseberry.

Yesterday, Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing took the reins as the latest designer to guest-design the house’s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022 collection, taking inspiration from JPG’s design DNA and his most groundbreaking signatures throughout history. Sending a plethora of variations of the designer’s famous motif down the runway, we saw modernized versions of Madonna’s pointed corset, golden metallic woven tin iterations and so much more.

Last season, model Dilone walked down the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2022 Couture runway in the black and gold turbo-busted breastplate for Roseberry’s An Age of Discipline collection, and the look ushered in a new era for the silhouette. Here, we’re looking back at its history.

Marilyn Monroe (Getty Images)

First released in 1941, brassiere brand Perma-Lift described their bullet bras as “self-fitting” with an added emphasis on the fact that only the stitching held its pointed shape together, all without the dreaded underwire. With the added allure of the bullet bra’s darts, the specific design was known to enhance the appearance of one’s cup size. Quickly picked up by other intimates labels, such as Maidenform, the style evolved into a wardrobe staple by the 1950s, donned by “sweater girls” and all of the hottest Hollywood starlets, from Marilyn Monroe to Jayne Mansfield.

Beginning to experiment and toy with unexpected, surrealist shapes, inimitable French fashion designer Paul Gaultier sent his first iterations of the cone bra down the runway in 1983. Taking elements from the 1950s bullet bra and subverting the context to a hyper-sexualized extreme, the designer’s Fall/Winter 1984 Barbès collection debuted his iconic velvet ruched corset lace-up conical breast dress still celebrated in fashion history today.

In fact, while the dress was widely swept to the side by the American fashion press of the time, European publications cemented the silhouette’s lasting influence. Known for taking conventional societal norms and spinning them on their head through his work, Gaultier took his rebellious cone bra to new heights when he dressed none other than Madonna in the garment in the ’90s.

Blonde Ambition Tour, Madonna, Feyenoord Stadion, De Kuip, Rotterdam, Holland, 24/07/1990. She is wearing a Jean Paul Gaultier conical bra corset. (Photo by Gie Knaeps/Getty Images)

Most certainly, the most famous woman to rock the designer’s pointed brassiere, Madonna showcased Gaultier’s signature look on her first stop on the iconic Blonde Ambition tour. Performing in Japan in 1990, the Vogue star rocked her now-signature stage garment for the very first time.

The first rendition of Madonna’s specific cone bra saw its debut in Gaultier’s 1987 runway presentation, having admitted in the past to first designing the look for his teddy bear named Nana. The cone bra style later made a grand appearance in 2006 in Gaultier’s 30th anniversary collection.

Here, GRAZIA USA has rounded up the best cone bras to take both the street and the runway, proving the statement look isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

Maidenform Chansonette Bra Advertisement, 1949

A woman adjusts her hair as she poses in an ad wearing her Maidenform Chansonette bra, 1949. (Photo by Underwood Archives/Getty Images)

Jayne Mansfield, 1955

circa 1955: Portrait of American actor Jayne Mansfield (1933 – 1967) standing outdoors in a light-colored T-shirt and leopard print pants. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

Iman walking for Jean Paul Gaultier’s 1983 runway show

Iman during John Paul Gaultier Fashion Show – 1983 in New York City. (Photo by Rose Hartman/WireImage)

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1985

Défilé Jean-Paul Gaultier, Prêt-à-Porter, collection Printemps-été 1985 à Paris, octobre 1984, France. (Photo by Daniel SIMON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Madonna in Jean Paul Gaultier, 1991

American pop star Madonna displays the outfit, designed by French Jean-Paul Gaultier, she is wearing under an ample coat as she leaves the Cannes Festival Palace after the screening of her movie “in Bed with Madonna”, on May 13, 1991 in Cannes, while movie director Alex Keshinian (L) looks on. (Photo credit should read GERARD JULIEN/AFP via Getty Images)

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2007 30th Anniversary Show

Model on the catwalk at Jean Paul Gaultier’s 30th anniversary retrospective. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images)

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2007 30th Anniversary Show

Jean-Paul Gaultier Retro Fashion Show as part of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2007 on October 3, 2006 in Paris, France. (Photo by Karl Prouse/Catwalking/Getty Images)

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020

Jean-Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show at Theatre Du Chatelet on January 22, 2020. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Jordan Alexander in Christopher John Rogers, 2021

Jordan Alexander attends The 2021 Met Gala Celebrating In America: A Lexicon Of Fashion at Metropolitan Museum of Art on September 13, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic)

Paris Jackson in Jean Paul Gaultier, 2021

Paris Jackson arrives a the grand opening of Carversteak at Resorts World Las Vegas on December 29, 2021 in Las Vegas, Nevada. (Photo by Denise Truscello/Getty Images for Carversteak)

Christopher John Rogers Pre-Fall 2022

Christopher John Rogers Pre-Fall 2022, Look 42. Image by: César Buitrago. Courtesy of Christopher John Rogers.

Julia Fox in Schiaparelli, 2022

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 23: Julia Fox attends the Kenzo Fall/Winter 2022 show on January 23, 2022. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)

Chiara Ferragni in Schiaparelli, 2022

PARIS, FRANCE – Chiara Ferragni outside Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022, on January 24, 2022. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022

Dilone, fashion detail, walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)

CL in Schiaparelli, 2022

Lee Chae-rin (aka CL) is seen, outside the Schiaparelli show, during Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023, on July 04, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/GC Images)

Anitta in Schiaparelli, 2022

Anitta seen wearing black sunglasses, a black with golden pearls beret, gold pendant earrings and a black with golden pearls bralette, outside the Schiaparelli show, during Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023, on July 04, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022 by Olivier Rousteing

The Jean-Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 06, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
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