As the fashion industry emerged from an isolation slump it was all party gowns, big ruffles and bold colors. Indeed when haute couture returned to the runway designers such as Giorgio Armani was making up for the joy we lost to COVID. In the two years since, it seems the acclaimed designer and his decades of expertise have landed this season’s demand for signature refined tailoring — cropped jackets paired with ankle-grazing cigarette pants — and voluminous gowns somewhere in the middle of costume and couture.

This week, the Italian fashion house unveiled Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 to a star-studded guest list including Hollywood’s Michelle Yeoh (who at the same time became the first Asian Best Actress Oscar nominee) and Baz Luhrmann. As is customary for an Armani runway the space was large and the runway long and sweeping. And on the floor a colorful diamond pattern, inspired by a painting of a Harlequin, covered the length of the runway in peony pink, turquoise, emerald green and royal blue. Forming the backdrop — and prelude — to the rest of the collection.

This season the designer dreamed up an imaginary dance composed of lines, light and colors that move and evolve at any angle. Much like a prism, Armani’s love, no, obsession with glittering sequins continued this season as crisp jackets, fitted skirts and slinky dresses alike shined and shimmered along the runway. The diamond motif was reflected back into the clothing in all-over prints and embellishments while the color palette was in keeping with the motif, deep black and blue providing much-needed contrast. Taking more literal reference to the Harlequin were ruffled collars, headpieces and balloon pants.