There was a moment at REMAIN’s Spring/Summer 2025 show where some guests considered leaving. As attendees took to their seats in the transformed gallery space in Copenhagen, the summer heat’s formidable presence almost got the better of many. But as the curtains pulled apart and the first look slithered down the runway, its calming effect washed over the crowd.
Inspired by the fitness culture of the 1980s, this season saw creative director Martin Asbjørn experiment with a new kind of minimalism. Though the brand has always been inclined towards refinement—and firmly rooted in modernity—this collection saw Asbjørn utilise body-centric fabrications and gravity-defying silhouettes that challenge traditional forms.
“I always start my collections from a place of intuition and investigation,” he tells GRAZIA ahead of the season’s debut. “For this collection, I was drawn to the seemingly different fashion eras of the ‘80s and ‘90s, and found inspiration in their shared connection of the power to shape and expose the female body. In the ‘80s it was through extreme colours and oversized tailoring, next to the decade’s obsession with fitness culture. Whereas in the ‘90s, women leave behind the eccentricity and moved towards a more minimal and sleek way of dressing, highlighting a more sculptured silhouette.”
Reminiscent of a ‘retrofuturistic’ aesthetic that once characterised sartorial projections of the future, Asbjørn’s latest endeavour brings to the visual ideal of modern dressing as it once was. Accessories were kept to a minimum for maximum impact, but cuffs—which are certainly on the rise, if CPHFW is any indicator—brought home a nostalgic sense of elegance that we’ll be replicating courtesy of Pandora all season long.
Shop the look with Pandora below.
As far as his favourite piece? The bold chocolate brown dress that saw many show-goers almost put their cameras down in aww. “We have created an ankle-length dress from delicate chocolate brown, slightly shiny suiting wool that features a high neckline and layered pleats that almost look like trousers beneath the dress,” he explained. “The dress is so simple yet mesmerizing in its intriguing details, and it is a stand-out piece for me.”
With an ethereal colour palette that takes its cues from Scandinavia’s otherworldly sunsets, the mood
“This collection brings back the core identity of REMAIN,” he continued. “This collection is quiet, but loud in its subtlety. We have taken the time to pay attention to finer details, to focus on craftsmanship and durability, which is something we wish to continue delivering at REMAIN.”
