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Humans have been lusting over diamonds as early as the fourth century. Just like exotic flowers, these formations are pulled from the earth and manipulated into creations of breathtaking beauty. The potent desire surrounding them has led to stories of glamour and agitation. But in 2023, with so much innovation at our fingertips, what if there was another way? A way where we could reap this brilliance without the fuss?
Since its inception in 1982, Pandora has quickly evolved to become the biggest jewellery company in the world by volume. In fact, in 2022, the Copenhagen-born brand sold three pieces every second. Though one of the younger major jewellery houses, Pandora doesn’t just hold history but makes it.
Think of its charms. Sitting at roughly 11mm, these statement trinkets took over the world upon their advent in the 2000s and continue to hold a special place in the hearts – and jewellery boxes – of many. Whether it was your first foray into accessorising or passed down, these nostalgic ornaments proliferated a message unique to Pandora’s approach to jewellery: make it your own.
Now, the brand is evolving this legacy as it enters a new chapter with lab-grown diamonds. These human-made gemstones, which simulate the natural pressures carbon undergoes to form mined diamonds, have historically been a divisive subject in the field. Often erroneously branded as ‘fake’ or ‘synthetic’, they are identical to their natural counterparts, boasting the same optical, chemical, thermal and physical characteristics – so much so that an expert jeweller could not tell the difference without documentation.
First crafted in the 50s, lab-grown diamonds are beginning to carve out their place in the market, making up around 10 percent of all diamond sales globally. With more brands catching onto their appeal, the market is now set to be worth AUD$87 billion by 2031.
But in investing in lab-grown diamonds, Pandora isn’t simply switching out its materials but rewriting the rules around jewellery entirely. For the brand’s creative directors, A. Filippo Ficarelli and Francesco Terzo, it’s not about changing but, rather, making change.
“This is a space that is largely unexplored, and diamonds have so much historical narrative to them,” says Ficarelli.
“But we want to use this as an opportunity to rewrite the story of jewellery.”
As Terzo notes, the brand’s success is rooted in this rebellious spirit of individualism. “If you look at the charms, it was a powerful moment. It took something that people liked and made it exciting and personal,” he says. “And we believe we can do the same with lab-grown diamonds.”
Diamonds have always been tied to precious moments. Whether it’s weddings, milestones, or celebratory gifting, these heirlooms of luxury are tucked away, only coming out for special occasions. But a core part of Pandora’s ethos is that diamonds can (and should) bring a sense of light to the everyday.
“We want to liberate diamonds from the narratives of the past, of preciousness that shouldn’t be touched,” says Ficarelli, adding that the ways younger generations are interacting with jewellery are a point of inspiration. “Jewellery can be so meaningful, but, especially with younger generations, we’re seeing more and more people wearing jewellery just for fun or simply for its aesthetic. In some ways, it’s nice not to take things too seriously, and we love seeing how people make Pandora their own.
“It intrigues us to see how people interact differently with Pandora around the world, and we encourage people to do what they want with our pieces,” he says.
With changing landscapes, Gen Z has been a focal market for brands across all industries. But capturing their attention is no easy feat. One of the ways Pandora continues to appeal to younger demographics is through its strides in the sustainability sphere – a key matter for the market.
Producing diamonds in a lab already negates a plethora of environmental issues often associated with mining diamonds. But with Pandora’s partnerships with suppliers that use 100 percent renewable energy sources, the brand’s diamonds use just five percent of the carbon emissions of the average mined diamond.
“There is a need for the younger generation to be unique and express themselves, but not at the cost of the planet. This jewellery is such a great way to do that,” says Ficarelli. And though he jokes that jewellery can be addictive once you begin having fun with it, this kind of experimentation is made entirely possible with Pandora’s price point, which sits at about a third of the price of mined diamonds.
This endeavour doesn’t come without its challenges, though. Introducing something ‘new’ to a market is difficult enough, let alone when it looks, feels and shines like something they think they already know.
“It can be a challenge for some to understand that these are real diamonds, so it does involve some education and unlearning,” explains Ficarelli. “Diamonds are a very traditional field, but our way of treating them goes against the rules. It’s an interesting journey, though, and we have the freedom to explore.”
The creative duo acknowledge that there will always be people more drawn to the mystique around mined diamonds, but that’s OK. “It’s a parallel. Another option,” says Terzo. “It’s not about saying one is good and one is bad.”
Designing with these refreshed materials, Ficarelli and Terzo have honed in on capturing the radiant light that unites all diamonds. Amongst its initial three lab-grown diamond collections, there is Pandora Nova, which introduced a distinct four-prong setting to reveal more of the diamond and reap more brilliance; Pandora Era, which reimagines the classic bezel settings with a unique Pandora take; and Pandora Infinite, which is inspired by the infinity symbol and is subtly warped to capture a sense of imperfection.
The duo were drawn to creating strong and unique designs that highlighted the brand’s premium craftsmanship but were still rooted in a modern simplicity that could adhere to the everyday wearer. Is the world ready for this subversive take? Pandora believes so.
“It’s the right time,” says Ficarelli. “Pandora is in a moment of change, and it’s full of opportunity and possibility.”
Here, the delicacy and intricate craftsmanship of these diamonds are magnified by the natural mystique of exotic florals and the raw beauty of the face and body. An interplay that explores the worldly beauty of all, it challenges the idea that tradition is what makes an heirloom. After all, life itself is rare and short. Why shouldn’t we get the diamonds out?
SHOP PANDORA’S LAB-GROWN DIAMOND COLLECTION HERE.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNE PEETERS
CREATIVE DIRECTION: AILEEN MARR
HAIR & MAKEUP: TANIELLE SORGIOVANNI
FASHION ASSISTANT: KELLY HARTY
MODEL: VENUS / PRISCILLAS
THIS FEATURE IS PUBLISHED IN THE 16TH EDITION OF GRAZIA INTERNATIONAL. ORDER YOUR COPY HERE.
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