Swapping naïveté for normalcy, Bahnsen takes a bite out
balancing luxury with everyday
A model presents a creation by Cecilie Bahnsen for the Women
Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris
Fashion Week, in Paris on February 28, 2024. (Photo by MIGUEL
MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty
Images)
If the Book of Genesis is believed, a woman’s bite set forth the
world’s wisdom. Femininity is akin to the origin story of Danish
designer Cecilie Bahnsen, who rendered the forbidden fruit in a
large-scale sculpture and placed it centre stage in Palais de Tokyo
at her Fall/Winter 2024 collection presentation during Paris
Fashion Week. Titled “The Bite”, Bahnsen evoked the symbolism of
girlish wonder by recontextualising her signature whimsy
demi-couture pieces in austere, sensible measures. While the
designer, who cut her teeth under John Galliano and
Erdem Moralıoğlu, will perenially romance the mundane, Bahnsen
extrapolated on the beauty of the habitual. There was an
appreciation for naivety, but a deeper understanding that time and
maturity reveal an idyll of simplicity, too.
Quite gestures—be it healing our inner child by wearing the
tulle fantasies of one’s past or more simply embuing quotidian
wares with an element of poetry—can be the most profound. Here in
Paris,
miles away from her hometown of
Copenhagen, the designer offered a discerning judgement,
eschewing overt elements of fantasy for designs rooted in reality.
This was Bahnsen’s Garden of Eden.
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during
the Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part
of Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo
by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
“For me, an Apple represents desire. Love. Strength. Beauty. But
there is also an ordinariness to it. I am drawn to this
juxtaposition of high and low, the clash between luxury and every
day,” the designer explained in the show notes.
This internal dichotomy was observed from the outset in a black
oversized V-neck cable knit sweater layered over a sheer slip
scattered with sweet daisy embroidery. Winter hallmarks—like the
navy sweaters sporting knitted botanical motifs or the billowing
windbreakers and fittingly named Mackintosh raincoat—oscillated
between pragmatic, austere and ethereal.
In Bahnsen’s world, the canyon between precious, expertly
crafted heirloom pieces and the archetypal garments of daily life
isn’t difficult to traverse but articulated with fluidity. This
collection deviated from her trademark by relegating
over-refinement to the silhouettes sported by her community of
adherents speckled in the front row.
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
Even the most magical garments—which there were a few, in bridal
whites, spangled silver, diaphanous organza and punctured
vinyl—were treated with a lived-in leisureliness. The casting
(creative friends of Bahnsens, not conventional models) and styling
(with each look completed by a new variant in Bahnsen’s sold-out
collaboration with Asics) helped emphasise this point too. Why
reserve artistry when it could be savoured at every interval?
In a way, it felt like the collection was more accessible than
ever, with every type of woman finding pockets to relish over the
29 looks. Her universe may have been once occupied by the ephemeral
fairies and princesses of our imaginations, but when slicing away
from these archetypes, a stubbornness for treasuring the
commonplace reveals itself.
“This idea of ‘The Bite’ is like leaving innocence behind a
little, which somehow also felt very relevant this season,” Bahnsen
noted. In Scandinavian
mythology, it’s proposed that the Norse goddess of Idun
maintains her immortality through the consumption and keeping of
magic apples. How fitting then, for Bahnsen to forge this mode of
maturity through crafting her own folklore and concluding her
runway with models walking the runway with half-bitten fruit.
In Bahsen’s fairytale, Eve doesn’t leave paradise exiled and
ostracised. Here, she walks away with the knowledge of her
self-assuredness and a custom-made-to-order wardrobe.
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the
Cecilie Bahnsen Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)