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It was in the cobblestone courtyard of Designmuseum Denmark where the Spring/Summer 2024 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week began.
Under the mercy of Storm ‘Hans’, the typically temperate week fell victim to grey skies, unexpected showers and a cool breeze blowing south from the Arctic.
By the end of the first day, with this season marking an extension of CPHFW from a three-day affair to four, the mode of the week was clear. This would be the season models wear bikinis in the rain.
With Scandinavian and Nordic designers arguably the most playful amongst the fashion set, Copenhagen proved to be a vivacious city full of an infectious ‘anything goes’ energy.
This vibe wasn’t shifted or deterred by the climate, but rather enhanced, with the setting of the week providing a moody backdrop for the vibrant displays on the runway.
In each collection, a sense of patriotism for Copenhagen was palpable, especially the unpredictability of the harbour city and its innately stylish inhabitants. This was discerned in how each collection took cues from the street style set, embraced functional fashion the sporadic weather calls for or complimented the array of architectural marvels where their shows were presented.
Mainly, the surprising summer storm made a case for why CPHFW is leading the vanguard as the world’s most sustainable fashion week. To show on the schedule, designers must adhere to 18 strict sustainability requirements.
Serving as the blueprint for the necessary paradigm shift and tangible change needed from the industry, the array of natural fibres, recycled fabrications and deadstock materials highlighted the perpetual vulnerability of the world under the impacts of climate change.
In Copenhagen, high fashion is not only sustainable, but it’s also the dernier cri.
This mode of unparalleled focus on sustainability isn’t just exclusive to fashion, with the city’s hotels, restaurants, galleries, homeware boutiques and jewellers, like Pandora, all sharing this collective commitment.
This season saw a more refined take on Scandi style. One that was underpinned by 90s minimalism and a softer approach to puckish silhouettes.
Between the four-day week and countless collection presentations, here are the biggest runway trends from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24 to acquaint yourself with.
Live Performances
Though this isn’t a sartorial trend, it is the most ubiquitous. Over the four days, CPHFW embraced the sonic talents of their city by subverting the classic runway soundtrack for a series of live performances.
Cecilie Bahnsen tapped Parisian ‘It’ girl Suki for a ‘live sessions’ event inspired by her FW23 show from Paris Fashion Week, Stamm looked to Syrian-Scandinavian rapper Silvana Imam and GANNI even looked to AI to create a ‘live’ playlist of head-swaying hits.
Styling Heros
As observed from the runways of CPHFW, the secret to Scandi style is in the elevated minutia of the wearer’s ensembles, especially achieved through added accents and flairs designers have dubbed ‘styling heroes’.
Saks Potts embellished their summer collection with flirty scarfs and ruffled frills, while OpéraSPORT added rosette belts and lace wraps to their more classic shapes.
Even ROTATE styled their collection with tassel earrings and nipple pasties inspired by the hanging fringes of old-school school hotel keys.
Soft Layering
Though a certain viral TikTok sound would tell you the key to achieving Scandi style is through layering ruffled maxi dresses with contrasting knits (including a balaclava) and chunky sneakers, the runways at CPHFW have proved the opposite.
The SS24 season hinted at a return to Scandi minimalism, which is fitting for the current economic climate. Skall Studios, Remain and Mark Kenly Domino Tan all focused on staple pieces in neutral tones, proving to be sartorial fundamentals.
But rather than the straightforward ‘stealth wealth’ style, these silhouettes were subverted with hidden details and an inner Scandi flair through soft layering.
Denim Desires
Denim was a key fabrication employed at CPHFW, though not in the traditional means.
Saks Potts took cues from Bottega Veneta in presenting their version of a Canadian tuxedo crafted from technical ‘blue denim’ leather, while GANNI offered a Barbiecore take on metallic denim in a burnished pink finish.
ROTATE and Gestuz looked to indie sleaze-esque distressed denim, with exaggerated rips and printed jacquard-like fabrics respectfully.
Cruel Summer
Unlike the balmy temperature of SS23, CPHFW’s take on summer essentials was marred by raucous weather. That didn’t inhibit designers from putting a Scandi spin on summer silhouettes.
Saks Potts paired bikini tops with sequin maxi skirts and stringy swimwear paired with leather sets crafted to appear as denim. OpéraSPORT also followed suit with key swimwear styles paired with matching pinstripe button-downs and purses.
Helmsted probably had the most apt approach to this ‘cruel’ summer season, with a rain cloud bralette made in collaboration with New York accessory label Susan Alexander.
Hosiery Galore
In news that would appeal to Hailey Bieber, who has tried to usher in a ‘socks with sandals’ renaissance for the entire summer, CPHFW has just co-signed on the pairing of socks with an array of footwear styles.
A. Roege Hove paired black ankle socks with strappy-heeled sandals. Kernemilk’s runway featured striped knee-highs with PVC heels. Elsewhere, Marimekko had white socks styled with velcro sandals.
