If you’re ready to shun Paris’ biggest tourist attractions in favour of off-the-beaten-track ideas, then hi, hello, welcome, you’ve come to the right place.
Beyond its role as a hub for some of the most iconic buildings in the world, from the Louvre to the Eiffel Tower, Paris is also a global metropolis and melting pot of hidden gems. It’s here where the world’s cultures unfold in a sprawling patchwork of diverse bars, eateries, galleries, hotels and shops, all steeped in history and utterly charming architecture at every turn. Ahead, your Grazia-approved, non-touristy guide to Paris. Bon journee!
WHERE TO STAY: Sinner
Paris has no shortage of quaint little B&Bs, but you’d be hard-pressed to find a more explicitly sultry and overtly alluring place to stay than the aptly named Sinner. Located in the 4th arrondissement, in the fashionable Le Marais district on Rue du Temple, the hedonistic hotel is arguably one of the city’s best. Corridors are dimly-lit by candelabra and stained-glass windows for a medieval Catholicism-meets-Fifty Shades kind of vibe. Whilst most of the hotel boasts a dungeon-like aesthetic, the rooms are surprisingly calm, with just a smattering of playful and provocative flourishes that are a nod to what Sinner is all about.
By night, the hotel lobby and restaurant (which you’ll find right next to the confessional booth) becomes a pumping party spot with a smoke machine, a DJ who plays till 2am, and a crowd of cool couples and discerning diners. The space is imbued with gothic and religious imagery, glowing red lanterns, and an opulent mezzanine bar. Ecclesiastically-clad staff flank the area, on-hand to serve your every need – avant-garde luxury at its finest.
This darkly-mischievous establishment would absolutely not be appropriate for a family trip, but if sultry Parisian romance is what you’re after, there’s nowhere better than Sinner.
WHAT TO DO
Visit the Shakespeare and Company Bookshop
The iconic and independent English-language bookstore opened in 1951 by George Whitman and is located on Paris’s Left Bank, right next to the Notre Dame. The literary utopia boasts an arsenal of just about every genre and author you could be looking for, and an aesthetic so cute and quaint, you’ll feel as if you’ve been transported to a quieter, older Paris.
Antiquing at Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen
A sprawling network of artsy alleyways, rustic shops and cavernous emporiums, Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen is a 150-year-old antique market, often credited as being the biggest flea market in the world. Lose yourself in the myriad second-hand silverware, dusty paintings ready for a new home, crockery fit for an antique collector and many more bizarre and wonderful objects begging to be discovered anew. There isn’t enough time in one day, a weekend or even, potentially, a lifetime, to explore every corner, but you better believe I gave it a damn good go!
Workout at Barry’s
Because not everyone wants to spend their entire holiday indulging, take yourself off to Barry’s Paris for a spin around the red room. Classes are multi-lingual, so if you don’t speak a word of French then not to worry, the trainers will still have you covered. The location is super central (Rue Réaumur), so you can even tie in a bit of sight-seeing on the commute.
Walk Along the Promenade Plantée
If you’re a fan of New York’s The High Line, then this one’s for you. Also known as Coulée Verte (“Green Stream”), this magical, green stroll, 10 metres above the street on an old railway, begins at the Bastille and winds through the 12th arrondissement for three miles. It’s the perfect non-touristy, post-lunch walk if you feel like you’ve seen all of Paris’ most famed parks and gardens.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Le Mary Celeste
For oysters in the sunshine.
Land & Monkeys
As far as a non-touristy guide to Paris goes, we’ve decided to throw in a non-conventional boulangerie, too: a vegan boulangerie. Yep, literally every pastry, croissant and sandwich is 100% vegan.
Candelaria
A Mexican taqueria where everything including the tortillas is made in-house. Start with sundowners at a table on the street, then ask for a table in the restaurant at the back, which gets vibey after dark.
Sinner Paris
If you don’t decide to stay at the hotel, you should probably (definitely) consider a couple of cocktails and dinner at the lobby-level restaurant. In keeping with the vibe of the whole hotel, the soace turns in a smoke-drenched underground bar that will have you feeling like you’ve entered the prohibition era. The menu is an array of international dishes, from North Africa to South America.
Harry’s New York Bar
A room full of regulars can be found at this century-old bar. Pitch up for great cocktails (it’s the birthplace of the Bloody Mary, in case you need inspo on what to order) and a quintessential Manhattan vibe.
Wild & the Moon
Did you know the much-loved Dubai franchise originated in Paris? I’m just going to leave this here: vegan blueberry scones. IYKYK.
Loved our non-touristy guide to Paris? Follow us on Instagram so you never miss a post.
