The Four Seasons Jumeirah Dubai is bursting with fine-dining restaurants frequented by the style set, and another gem has just opened its doors to the emirate’s foodies. Japanese-fusion hotspot Mimi Kakushi arrived on our doorstep in March and has been filled with delighted diners ever since; we made a reservation for late on a Tuesday night and were surrounded by full tables (safely distanced, obviously).
Mimi Kakushi is named after the Japanese word for the western-influenced bob hairstyle made popular in 1922 – directly translated as “covering ears” – and its unique décor is an homage to Osaka’s jazz scene in the roaring twenties. Everywhere we looked there were diners taking pictures of the beautiful interiors (guilty!).
The food – of course- is Japanese but with playful twists and western influences. After much deliberation (and translations from our extremely knowledgeable waiter) we settled on a selection of starters. First up: Salmon Roe Sashimi, Salmon and Avocado Maki Roll and Smashed Hamachi. The Salmon Roe Sashimi, our very-own pot of gold, was positively glistening while the Salmon and Avocado Maki Roll offered an exciting textural twist by way of crispy quinoa. The stand out, however, was the Smashed Hamachi. We could write a sonnet about the Smashed Hamachi and all its tangy, avocado-y, yuzu-y goodness (yes, we understand those last two aren’t real words, but this dish will do that to you). Easily one of the top three dishes we have had in Dubai.
The second wave of starters – hey, don’t judge us – brought the extraordinary Beef Tartare served atop Baked Bone Marrow (literally still in the bone) served with fried buns that had a goose bump-inducing crunch on the outside and were delightfully fluffy on the inside. We also tucked into a perfectly fried Tiger Prawn Tempura, tongue-tingling Togarashi Marinated Octopus (served in skewer form, or “Kushi”) and a Wagyu and Fois Gras Gyoza; while the Gyoza was a little too rich for our taste – call us unrefined – we did enjoy dipping the aforementioned mini buns into the sauce. The dish which surprised us the most, however, was the Japanese Grilled Sweet Corn side dish which was drenched in Chili Ponzu Butter and was so delicious that its categorisation as a side dish is almost hurtful.
We skipped the main courses – did you not see how many starters we had? – and went straight for the oh-so-decadent Kori-Kori Chocolate Mi-Cuit (that’s a chocolate fondant to you and me) with crunchy, home-made peanut butter and a not-too-sweet coconut ice cream. The gloriously gooey, insta-worthy dessert ended our evening on a (sugar) high.
With its status as the newbie on the block we had no expectations or prior knowledge of Mimi Kakushi before our visit; however, we should have known it would be outstanding given it comes from the brains behind La Cantine and Twiggy. The prices may warrant Mimi Kakushi the status as one to save for a special occasion but boy, what an occasion it is. Innovative cuisine and an ambiance reminiscent of a New York City eatery has cemented Mimi Kakushi’s place on our list of favourite restaurants in the city.
Mimi Kakushi, Four Seasons Dubai Jumeirah. book now
Photos: Supplied
