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Anthony Vaccarello knows how to turn a runway into a manifesto. For Spring/Summer 2026, Saint Laurent unveiled its vision beneath the glittering Eiffel Tower, a cinematic stage for a collection that spoke to the House’s knack for power and provocation.
More than theatrics, the clothes were steeped in contrasts, oscillating between severity and high romance. Vaccarello opened with leather pencil skirts softened by billowing pussybow blouses, their ties dramatically oversized and tucked under belted aviator jackets. With a focus on 80s drama, sportswear tropes also appeared in the form of cinched dresses, trench coats and shirt/skirt combinations in lightweight, semi-sheer athleisure fabrics. It was that typically Saint Laurent trick of taking something familiar, even quotidian, and rendering it with an inpenetrable elegance. Remember the hosiery dresses of Fall/Winter 2024?
Eveningwear, as always, provided the crescendo. Ruffles, volume, and unapologetic colour turned the models into heroines mid-stride, almost Victorian in their silhouettes. Shoulders were broadened, hips accentuated, and fabrics swirled with movement. With hands shoved defiantly into pockets, accessories were pared back but pointed, limited to face-shielding sunglasses, chandelier earrings that could stop traffic, and stilettos sharpened to a cutting point.
And then, the moment: Bella Hadid’s much-anticipated return to the runway once again took place on the Saint Laurent catwalk. In a sculptural marigold look with power shoulders and a slicked bun, she became the ultimate heroine of Vaccarello’s imagination, earrings swinging to her shoulders.
The audience matched the spectacle, as Saint Laurent has tapped some of Hollywood’s most alluring figures as muses. Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Charli XCX, and Rosé formed a star-studded front row, their outfits echoing the house’s playful balance of retro delicacy and contemporary cool.
Ahead, see the best looks from Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2026 or watch the show here.
