The fashion world gathered in Paris last week to experience the autumn/winter couture shows created by the industry’s top designers. From towers of tulle at Giambattista Valli to intricate beadwork laid against jewel-toned fabrics at Georges Hobeika, these haute couture collections represented the height of fashion and fantasy. They were mainly spectacle, at least, for 99% of the people watching. Eyes were glued to videos of Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, and Nicole Kidman on Balenciaga’s catwalk during the events, in addition to the body art fashion at Jean Paul Gaultier. While each designer expressed their unique point of view, certain materials and silhouettes repeatedly appeared throughout their collections. Ahead, five fashion trends to come off the runway at the autumn/winter couture shows 2022-23.
Metallic material
Sleek metallic materials graced the runway at haute couture shows this season, from Elie Saab’s exquisite dusty gold menswear tailoring to Rahul Mishra’s peppered gold matching sets. The colour reminds us of the precious stones gold metallics are naturally found in, perfectly balancing haute couture fashion’s exclusive and armour-like nature.
high-low dress silhouette
Brands like Giambattista Valli and Zuhair Murad brought drama and fantasy to the runway with exquisite high-to-low silhouette dresses rendered in thick layers of tulle. Designer Elie Saab cleverly recreated the high-to-low silhouette by placing black shorts under sheer fabrics that covered the models’ legs and adding an oversized cape on top to complete the look.
sculptural flowers
The runway was blooming with sculptural flowers this season, with brands like Schiaparelli, Rahul Mishra, and Elie Saab all incorporating floral structures into their haute couture designs. Standout moments for this trend include Alexis Mabille’s floral headpiece (the model’s face was the pistil) and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s incorporation of Valentino Garavani’s signature red roses.
power shoulders
Designers like Alexander Vauthier, Rahul Mishra and Ronald van der Kemp all sent robust shoulder padding down the runway this season, proving that power dressing is back in full force. Viktor and Rolf’s playful proportions are one of the most extreme versions of the trend, solidifying its significance.
plumage
Haute couture and plumage are par for the course, but the number of designers incorporating the element into their collections caught our attention. Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli incorporated his now-signature jellyfish-like hats into the autumn/winter collection along with Julie de Libran, who used ostrich feathers to create an off-the-shoulder coat. Elie Saab and Balenciaga also participated in the trend, with feathers flowing off of their dresses.
