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Confused about retinoids? You’re not the only one. Retinoid is an umbrella term to encapsulate all types of retinols, including over-the-counter and prescription variations. Retinoids are potent anti-agers because they increase cell turnover. As we age, our cell turnover rate naturally slows down. Babies have a complete cell turnover in under two weeks. For an adult, cell turnover can take between 30-80 days. Dead skin cells mean dull skin. Exactly what we don’t want for our complexions.
Retinoids also even out skin texture and decrease the appearance of hyperpigmentation. They increase collagen production and soften fine lines and wrinkles. However, retinols do come with some side effects. Their severity depends on the strength of the retinol. Side effects include dryness, peeling, redness, and tightening. It’s imperative to apply retinoids only at night as they make skin photosensitive. Remember to use sunblock in the morning, even if you plan on staying indoors all day.
Prescription strength
Tretinoin is a pure retinoic acid. Retinoic acids binds directly to the receptor cells and begins the process of cell turnover. Therefore it is the strongest form. Results can be seen within three months. Keep in mind, since this is the strongest form, it also has the most severe side effects.
Over-the-counter
Retinols take longer to work but have fewer side effects. When applied to skin, retinols need to undergo a chemical reaction to convert it to retinoic acid. Once it becomes retinoic acid, it can bind to the receptor cells. Expect to see results within six months to one year.
Retinoic acid esters are not prescription strength. However, the body recognises them as retinoic acid. They start the cell turnover process immediately. Look for ingredients like Granactive retinoid and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR). The weakest form of retinoids are retinoid esters. They need to undergo several chemical conversions to transform to retinoic acid. This is a great form for those beginning their retinoid journey and those with sensitive skin. Look for ingredients such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate.
