Not only are the ‘90s and early aughts having a huge renaissance in the fashion industry, but so too is all the maximalism that came around the same time, egged on by our reemergence into the world: if we’re able to go outside again, we want to throw away the beige and do so wearing colour, print and all that comes with it. 

Many designers are finding themselves back in the spotlight due to the current trend, with Roberto Cavalli being the perfect example. The Italian label has been worn recently by everyone from Kim Kardashian to Jennifer Lopez and Olivia Rodrigo, the latter of which wore an archive aquamarine chiffon embroidered patchwork mini dress by the brand in her new music video in a tribute to Britney Spears. 

The increased attention, especially by new consumers in Gen Z, could make or break a designer, especially one who’s new to their role. But on the opening night of Milan Fashion Week, Cavalli’s new creative director Fausto Puglisi presented his first runway show, proving in the process that he not only knows what the audience wants, but he’s willing and ready to push the boundaries even further. 

Sent down the catwalk were models donning animal print from top-to-toe, with huge tiger faces and zebra-print mixed and matched together in a maximalist dream. There were also cut-outs a plenty, in line with the likes of next-gen designers, such as Supriya Lele, Charlotte Knowles and Nensi Dojaka, on sexy black mini and maxi dresses in strips of black lace and patent leather. 

Footwear too was taken to the next level, perhaps Puglisi’s only misstep: with pointed heels in the shape of curved claws, many models ended up kicking them off and holding them in their hands, while walking barefoot along the runway. Others, who were lucky enough to be allocated the show’s strappy sandals, looked relived—reminding us that maximalism shouldn’t come at the expense of comfort. There’s a reason everyone’s wearing designer crocs, after all.