Preppy began on American campuses in the middle of the last century, where students at a handful of East Coast universities dressed with the ease of people who had inherited their tailoring along with everything else. The Ivy League look traveled outward from there, and by 1980 it had grown popular enough for Lisa Birnbach to catalogue its every rule in The Official Preppy Handbook, a book written with tongue firmly in cheek and read by millions as an instruction manual. What made the style endure is exactly what makes it useful at a desk. Preppy dressing was built for rooms where authority matters and visible effort counts against you, a description that fits most offices with uncomfortable accuracy. The trouser carries the whole proposition.

Preppy Pants Colors and Fabrics: Velvet, Burgundy and Prince of Wales Check

The palette stays close to the ground, with beige doing the heavy lifting and burgundy supplying the warmth, while chocolate brown and forest green cover everything a black trouser used to handle. Velvet is the fabric of the season and belongs here by lineage, having furnished the smoking jackets and library chairs of the houses this look came from. A velvet trouser catches light along the seam and reads as considered under fluorescent office lighting, which flatters very little else. Prince of Wales check follows close behind, a pattern that entered the language through a British royal who wore it in the Twenties and has been borrowed by tailoring ever since. Beyond it sit the tartans and the windowpane weaves, each one asking for a plain top and very little argument.

How to Style Preppy Flare Pants for the Office

Here the season departs from the campus original. The flare has returned, kept narrow through the thigh and released below the knee, which lengthens the leg while staying well short of costume. Length decides everything, since a preppy flare wants to graze the floor over a heeled loafer or a low boot and loses its logic the moment it sits higher. Above the waist the rule is restraint, so a fine-gauge knit tucked in or a cropped blazer stopping at the hip will let the trouser hold the room. Gold jewelry earns its place, a thin chain or a signet ring reading as inherited rather than chosen. Worn this way, they are trousers that seem to remember a library they never sat in.

Here’s five pairs to start with!

Cos, Corduroy Straight-Leg Pants, $ 159Paul Smith, Wool-Blend Pants, $ 525

Polo Ralph Lauren, Beaton Corduroy Wide-Leg Pants, $ 298

7 For All Manking, Calie Strainght Pants, $ 348

Max & Co., Wide-Leg Tailored Trousers, $ 270