Bibhu Mohapatra’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, was a celebration of Indian heritage, modern flair, and women empowerment. The designer drew inspiration from “two amazing women who lived 100 years apart,” while also incorporating contemporary trends and silhouettes.

GRAZIA exclusively spoke with the fashion designer, discussing his inspiration behind his latest collection and what he hopes for it to exude.

The two women that inspired Bibhu Mohapatra’s SS24 collection were artists. “One of them was Augusta Savage, a female black sculptor, who was a big part of the Harlem Renaissance,” the designer shares. “She became an educator and trained a lot of prominent artists.”

The second female artist he incorporated into his designs was Simone Leigh. “She’s also a trailblazer,” Mohapatra explains. “She is the first black woman to be representing the US at the Venice Biennale.

“Both of the women have lot of similarities, which is being all about their community, women’s rights, and women artists.”

Mohapatra’s goal was to channel the optimistic story of both of these sculptors who lived 100 years apart, from their life to the incredible work they have put out into the world.

Compared to past collections, Mohapatra describes his SS24 line as “a happy collection” through its use of color stories and styles, featuring “new drape ideas, new fabrications, and a lot of custom detailing.”

The collection features a variety of looks, from intricate beading and flowing skirts to hi-low gowns with structured bodices. Mohapatra used a mix of fabrics and colors to create pieces that were both luxurious and wearable.

One of the highlights of the collection showcased during NYFW was the use of Indian embroidery. Mohapatra worked with skilled artisans to create intricate hand-embroidered details on many of the garments. The embroidery added a touch of glamour and sophistication to the collection.

Another standout feature of the collection was the use of color. Mohapatra mixed bold, jewel tones with more muted neutrals to create a palette that was both vibrant and versatile.

In his interview with GRAZIA, Mohapatra also shared his inspiration behind his first eyewear collaboration in tandem with ic! berlin.

“It’s one of the most incredible German eyewear company that makes [products] for Porsche and Mercedes Benz,” Mohapatra shares with excitement. “It’s going to be launched officially worldwide in February.”

When asked why he decided to venture into eyewear with ic! berlin, the Indian fashion designer said it was simple: ethics. Mohapatra values integrity above all and stands with the brand’s code of ethics. It was also a natural collaboration in the sense that he already had some pieces from ic! berlin and believed in their products.

The ic! berlin x Bibhu Mohapatra eyewear collection features a variety of frames, from classic wayfarers to oversized aviators. The frames are made from lightweight, durable materials and feature unique design details, such as laser-cut patterns and colorful embellishments.

The Bibhu Mohapatra NYFW SS24 collection is a celebration of Indian heritage, modern flair, and women empowerment. The designer’s use of color, intricate embroidery, and contemporary silhouettes created pieces that are both beautiful and wearable for women all over the world.