Helmed by husband and wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier since 2017, Jil Sander has been a pioneer of the ‘queit luxury’ movement long before Succession and Gwyneth Paltrow’s infamous ski trial outfits made the term go viral. Twisting the narrative a little, the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 show saw a darker take from last season’s frills, reportedly inspired by the world’s dire current circumstances.

The collection actually took cues from Canadian photographer Greg Girard—namely, his images of 20th-century cars, motel rooms and the the nightlife of global metropolises, which were seen on prints. Girard, who was present at the show, examines the social and physical transformations of spaces through his work, which is perhaps what the Meiers were getting at with Spring/Summer 2025.

With no firm sense of time or place, looks—comprised of suiting, sets and dresses—held an ethereal quality to them, almost dystopian in nature. Exaggerated proportions evoked 1980s workwear while floaty slips and details like fringing offered a 1920s feel. Reflective of Girard’s gritty photographic aesthetic, the collection’s nods to city living were present in neon hues, androgynous silhouettes and a moody colour paleette. But bringing a sense of balance and polish to these grungier details were softer touches like lettuce hems, pleats, pastel tones, embroidery and bejewelled panels.

Elsewhere, a necklace and a sweater read ‘Lonely Hearts’. Though it’s unclear exactly what inspired the Meiers to spotlight those words, their insights suggest a desire to transform and overcome the gloomy state of the world. In a time marked by deep division, perhaps it’s a quiet call to reach out to one another.

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