Since taking on the role of creative director of womenswear for Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has brought a versatility to her collections that is always inspired by the dynamic women she aims to serve. For Autumn/Winter 2024, she found herself infatuated with a pivotal moment in the house’s history—and for fashion as we know it—in the inception of Miss Dior.
Led by Marc Bohan and Philippe Guibourgé in 1967, the Paris boutique was a response to the momentum fashion was experiencing across the globe, where fashion left the atelier to bring craftsmanship to the world and the world to its craftsmanship. During a period of transition, foreshadowing globalisation, the industry saw sweeping changes to how designers approach clothes, paving the way for the ready-to-wear model.
“I think [Bohan] was really visionary for the time because the couture house was in difficulty.,” said Chiuri in an interview. “They had this relationship only with these couture clients—and women were changing. Not all the couture-house creative directors were so visionary to understand the new era and new women.”
On its Paris runway last night, the offering was naturally more wearable, effortlessly able to convey a history of craftsmanship while mixing with contemporary aesthetics. Colours echoed Bohan’s tenure at the house with white, orange, pink and neon green. The ‘Miss Dior’ logo becomes a signature once again, blown up like graffiti on an assortment of outerwear, skirts and more.
The scarf, a dear staple to Chiuri’s Dior is undefined—adjustable and compact, protective, enveloping, and embellishing as required. Unlike the ‘New Look’ that changed the brand with its emphasis on figures, this season’s silhouettes were roomy and sophisticated, with barely a cinched waist in sight. Embracing the body without constricting it.
Partnering with artists has always been a go-to for Chiuri, and Autumn/Winter 2024 is no different. The show’s atmosphere was anchored by striking decor realised by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, who explores the female body and its relationship to different spaces.
Capturing a dynamic moment in time that gave impetus to a new way of dressing for all, the Autumn/Winter 2024 show reflects not only its inspiration but endears itself to what women want to buy from luxury houses like Dior in 2024: multifaceted pieces that offer mileage and premium quality for their dollars.
