From the onset of his career, Chet Lo quickly became a rising star for his spiked-up popcorn knits that quickly took on cult status amongst the Gen Z style set. But like anyone that’s quick to ascend, there’s always the risk of burning out. For Spring/Summer 2024, though, Lo proves he has so much more to offer, delivering a striking collection that oozed an evolved sex appeal.

Reflecting on his own complicated relationship with his sexual identity, having grown up as queer Chinese-American, Lo, like many second-generation LGBTQ+ people, found inspiration in the ways sexuality is suppressed and represented in Asian cultures. This, in turn, drew him to avenues. Lifting graphics unearthed from ancient Chinese erotic art and Japanese shunga—a traditional art form often featuring same-sex couples’ depictions—Lo abstracted these images across satin devoré tops, knits and even leather to create blush-inducing prints.

Elsewhere, lace-up details inspired by the Japanese erotic rope play Shibari, put a twist on the sensuality of his figure-hugging looks, instead calling on tactical separates and negative space to empower. Hair, by Anna Cofone, was a beauty highlight of the week, taking the Shibari influence and transforming locks into towering sculptural branches worn with palpable confidence.

Lo’s trademark knitwear was not absent but took on a more subdued note to the delight of his loyal fans. But as the designer admitted, his ambitions lie in pushing the label beyond just an of-the-moment wardrobe piece, and in this collection, he proves in spades just how capable he is.