Paris Fashion Week witnessed the much-anticipated debut of Chemena Kamali, the new Creative Director at the iconic French fashion house, Chloé.
Founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé has always been known for its effortless femininity and bohemian elegance. From the romantic ruffles of the 70s to the minimalist chic of Phoebe Philo’s reign, the brand has consistently championed a spirit of freedom and individuality, attracting the likes of Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin as muses.
Prior to Kamali’s arrival, Chloé enjoyed a successful period under the creative direction of Gabriela Hearst, who infused the collections with a focus on sustainability and ethical practices. At the end of 2023, Hearst ultimately decided to dedicate herself full-time to her own namesake brand after a successful three-year run at Chloé.
Kamali, on the other hand, brings a different perspective. A graduate of Central Saint Martins and a former creative director at Alexander McQueen, she is known for her playful and whimsical aesthetic, often incorporating unexpected materials and textures into her designs. Notably, Kamali herself has a significant history with Chloé, having previously worked under Phoebe Philo, Hannah MacGibbon, and Clare Waight Keller, bringing deep familiarity with the brand’s heritage.
Kamali’s debut collection for Chloé, Fall/Winter 2024, did not disappoint. Titled “Chloé’s Dynasties Look to the Future,” it was a delightful blend of the label’s heritage and Kamali’s personal touch. Diaphanous tiers of 1970s-inspired flounces cascaded in angelically light hues, contrasting beautifully with the raw, brutalist warehouse space where the show was held. This juxtaposition perfectly embodied the collection’s core message — a celebration of feminine strength and a youthful spirit that transcends time.
Reviews for the collection have been overwhelmingly positive. Critics lauded Kamali’s ability to reimagine Chloé’s DNA while injecting it with her own signature flair.
The most heartwarming moment of the evening wasn’t limited to the runway. As Kamali took her final bow, her young son, overcome with excitement, sprinted towards her, leaping into her arms in a scene captured in photographs and social media clips that are garnering significant attention. The tender embrace showcased not only Kamali’s personal journey, but also the brand’s dedication to celebrating women in all their complexities — mothers, designers, and individuals forging their own paths.
With Kamali at the helm, Chloé’s future looks bright, filled with the promise of continued innovation and a touch of whimsical charm. What more could we ask for?
