SAINT-TROPEZ, FRANCE: Along the craggy coastal cliffs of the iconic Côte d’Azu — and somewhere in between the grassy reeds of its cliff-top village of Ramatuelle — Hedi Slimane staged a runway to usher in his latest outing for Celine: LA Collection De Saint-Tropez.
In the same way he live-streamed the House’s digital-only Fall/Winter 2022 collection in May — remember the boyish baggy jeans, sleek black turtlenecks, towering leather heeled boots, and glittering sequinned gowns? — Slimane has released a short film. And, adding true Slimane icing, he has enlisted Carl Barát and Pete Doherty from The Libertines to set the vibe.
It is of no coincidence that the couturier chose the heady Ramatuelle as his inspiration. For five years, Slimane has explored the small town and its surroundings as a counterpoint to the Saint Germain-des-prés codes of Celine. (The designer’s beach shack is actually the inspiration for the interior design work inside Celine boutiques worldwide.)
And counterpoint it is indeed. The greatest takeaway from the show? The presence of the original skinny jeans along the French Riviera. Yes, if Fall/Winter 2022 played on past Slimane tropes, Summer 2023 just blew it out of the Mediterranean sea. The silhouette – low-rise, tight and unforgiving — is reminiscent of the British and American rock scenes in the early 2000 (of which Slimane is a fan). But in 2022, Celine proposes an update: the narrow cut in supple lambskin leather.
With his head in the past and with one eye firmly on his vision, Slimane paired the jeans with big military boots, a belt and a sequinned blazer. Gladiator sandals – robust, knee-high and tan – were teamed with a mini dress and a black blazer, a stark mix of Sienna Miller and Kate Moss running about Londontown in bygone years – and tipped with a sailor hat. To finish, Slimane relaunched the cabas bag, a favorite from the brand’s London period. Enter, the “Celine Conti bag.”
It was truly incredible!
On December 8th the Maison will unveil its women’s ready-to-wear collection live from Los Angeles. Maybe we’ll see the Riviera’s palazzo pants and crochet cover ups contrast to the City of Angels?
Watch Celine’s Summer 2023 show below.