As the CFDA fashion awards is a celebration of American fashion, and the contributions of American brands to the global fashion landscape—this year’s iteration, was an especially important night, as Black designers, and their contributions to the cannon, took centerstage. With Grace Wales Bonner, Christopher John Rogers, Telfar and Theophilio all taking home the big prizes, as well as Zendaya receiving the Fashion Icon Award, Aurora James the Founder’s Award, and Dapper Dan the prestigious Geoffrey Bean Lifetime Achievement Award, the message was clear—that Black fashion designers have, are and continue to be integral to the fabric (no-pun intended) of this industry. Diversity and inclusion, two wildly overused buzzwords, have often fallen on deaf ears. For far too long in this industry, Black designers have been marginalized, under-appreciated, kept out of the same spaces as their white counterparts and left out of certain conversations in regards to global impact. And while last night’s awards ceremony isn’t a solution or fix for the systematic issues within the fashion space—it’s a gradual step towards progress!
Telfar, quite possibly the most notable name in accessories and fashion in general right now, took home the American Accessories Designer of the Year award and tbh, it was so rightfully deserved. For the past few years, it’s been impossible to escape the brilliant marketing of the “it” bag, the Telfar shopping bag. From landing on Oprah’s “Favorite Things List”, to placements on HBO’s “Insecure”, the influence of the Telfar bag has been immense. Him taking home the American Accessories Designer of the Year, for yet another consecutive year, further places him in the lexicon of great luxury handbag designers. Aside from the myriad of accomplishments and constant media attention, Telfar has committed his platform to creating safe spaces for Black cis and Black LGBTQIA folx. That alone speaks volumes to his mission “it’s not for you, it’s for everyone” as everyone can buy into the brand, but most importantly, be seen. Much like Telfar, British menswear designer, Grace Wales Bonner, is weaving safe spaces for Black men to express and re-imagine the scope of Black masculinity. Last night, Bonner, took home the award for International Men’s Designer of the Year. Wales Bonner, who’s approach to design mirrors that of a curatorial practice, has used the label to craft important conversations around identity, sexuality, and Black thought and expressionism. She’s pushing menswear further, using collections as capsule exhibitions, fully stepping into the narrative of fashion as art.
Our premier American couturier, Christopher John Rogers, was awarded American Womenswear Designer of the Year at last nights ceremony—with the chicest date, Amanda Murray, by his side. Through his eponymous label, he’s spent the scope of his career dressing some of the worlds most iconic women—I mean Gaga, Beyoncé, Rihanna, and VP Kamala Harris—pushing a return to glamour, re-inventing the color wheel (I mean CJR, is the undisputed master of color theory) and honing in on his organic ability to just make people feel beautiful. Christopher John Rogers is at the forefront of re-defining American luxury, focusing on tailoring, attention to cut, and scrumptious fabrics and materiality use. Rogers comes from a long lineage of Black American designers that have shifted culture and re-invented the curve yet have often been left out of conversations around American fashion (i.e. Patrick Kelly and Stephen Burrows)—so seeing him take home this prestigious award, cements the impact of Black designers.
Last night was a moment of celebration, as friends and family gathered to celebrate these massive wins. Guest headed uptown to Public Hotel, to celebrate Theophilio, fellowshipping together, while waiting on the arrival of designer Edvin Thompson. As word slowly came in that Theophilio had won the American Emerging Designer of the Year award, there was a collective outpour of pride. This win was for the culture! Theophilio designer Edvin Thompson, has embedded into his house codes, a celebration of his native motherland Jamaica—consistently interjecting Blackness into every part of the brand. From working with an all Black creative team and collaborating with Black new vanguard image makers, to his casting, Thompson’s viewpoint is distinctly his, always tying back to Black culture.
Fashion, like any other industry as well the world at large, is still grappling with its own set of systematic issues; from “diversity and inclusion”, over consumption, artistic burnout and racial equity. While there is still so much work that needs to be done to ensure Black designers are seen, invested in and supported, this year’s stellar group of CFDA award recipients shows that the industry is in good hands.
