For Fall/Winter 2024, Daniel Roseberry brings the fantasy of
Schiaparelli Haute Couture to the everyday
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
Since introducing a
ready-to-wear offering last year, Daniel Roseberry has done
what few people would’ve believed was possible: brought the madcap
wonder of Elsa Schiaparelli’s world to the, I use this term
loosely, ‘everyday’ woman, without diluting the maison’s allure.
And if his Fall/Winter 2024 collection is anything to go by, he’s
only just getting started.
Suiting kicked off the show at Place Vendôme in Paris, with a
marle grey two-piece look—sans bra or shirt—in a much more relaxed
silhouette than we’re used to seeing. But house motifs were found
upon a closer look; in tape measure embroidery along the lapel,
gilded buttons and mini keyhole cut-outs. Schiaparelli for the
office? Who would’ve thought?
A brand that has garnered a cult following for its formidable
founder and exceptionally worthy successor, the strength of
Roseberry’s eye is evident in the way ready-to-wear does not feel
like an inhibited alter-ego of
his couture work but rather an extension that contributes to a
more holistic picture.
With no major celebrities in sight for the front row, it makes
sense that Roseberry was taking a different approach this season.
As he told an outlet before the show, the American designer takes
cues from what the women in his life actually want to wear.
Nods to his Texan upbringing were also in plaited faux hair
ties, riding caps, gold-capped cowboy points and Jockey-like
silhouettes. Elsewhere, a ribbed skirt and sleeveless turtleneck
co-ord appeared first as leather and refined long-sleeve dresses
imprinted with anatomical ribs, a puffer jacket with ‘abs’ and
sleek sets rendered in acid-wash denim offers the tongue-in-cheek
wit appreciated by Schiaparelli woman, in prêt-à-porter
form.
“What they want from us is still this humour, this creativity,
but made effortless,” he said, adding elsewhere that this expansion sets out to touch
other parts of his customer’s lives. “You need to be able to think
about the everydayness of the brand as well. Not just the
extraordinary moments.”
After all, people, not even
Elsa Schiaparelli herself, don’t just exist in couture. They
exist in their errands, going out to dinner, taking out the trash
and beyond. And though much of the luxury clientele might delegate
these tasks—or, at least, save the Schiaparelli for special
occasions—a brand that doesn’t think about the dualities of its
customers is doomed to disappoint. One of the few designers who can
keep up the fantasy of fashion in trying times, Roseberry certainly
does not disappoint. In fact, even when pieces still err on the
inaccessible to us laymen, something still speaks to us.
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
A Model on the runway at Schiaparelli RTW Fall 2024 as part of
Paris Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at Pavillon Vendôme on
February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 29: A model walks the runway during the
Schiaparelli Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris
Fashion Week on February 29, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Estrop/Getty Images)