In honour of India’s Independence Day, we look at one author’s deep dive into India’s influence on fashion design and popular sartorial styles throughout the past six centuries. The author, Phyllida Jay, recounts the many times fashion has tapped into India’s rich visual culture in her new book, Inspired India: How India Transformed Global Design. 

Inspired India chronicles the rich and complex history between the fashion industry in the West and Indian culture, revealing which western fashion icons drew from it in their looks. This list includes people like Audrey Hepburn, who wore a sari-inspired dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Mick Jagger, whose beaded and patterned styles in the sixties can be linked back to traditional Indian design. High fashion designers have also tapped into this design in their collections, like Jean Paul Gaultier, who drew upon traditional jewellery in Indian culture for his runway collection styling. Similarly, Dior and Hermès created Indian-inspired objects in their collections, with representations of India appearing on items such as watches and bags.

 

Phyllida Jay’s book is a visually compelling work that details India’s global influence on luxury fashion with a collection of examples, which is rendered in an exciting format that allows the reader to pick up on design cues connected to Indian culture. Jay’s Inspired India is an informative account of India’s ongoing impact on fashion and a tribute to how traditional Indian designs are adopted and appreciated worldwide. It’s a testament to this design style, communicating its powerful impact on the global community to move and inspire designers and stylists.

When viewing garments created in the West inspired by traditional wear, we must acknowledge that the designers and stylists toe the line between cultural appropriation and appreciation. However, Jay’s book tackles this cultural exchange with nuance and optimism. Cultural appreciation is also par for the course with Jay’s book publisher, Roli Books, which focuses on sharing India’s rich culture. The publishing house carefully selects novels that uplift and empower the talent coming out of the country, ultimately creating an oeuvre of stunning books that Phyllida Jay’s Inspired India fits well into–and would fit even better on your shelf.

Shop Jay’s Inspired India: How India Transformed Global Design here.