If guests thought they’d be escaping the Paris rain to the sanctuary of the la Garde républicaine for Hermès’ Fall/Winter 2024 show, they were in for a surprise. As drips from the ceiling crescendoed to downpour, the setting reflected what inspired Nadège Vanhée‘s latest collection: the elements. Or, more specifically, the changing elements.

As shownotes explained, what the creative director had in mind for this season was the urban woman moving through an irrevocably transformed world. Whether it’s atop a motorcycle or a horse, she rides bravely through her environment and doesn’t let a little rain get in her way. Now if your intial thoughts were about how the luxury house’s leathergoods would fare in the drizzle, you’re not alone. But unique in this collection is an innovation of the usual cowhides, in which leathers have been treated to be water-resilient.

To the sounds of the 1981 song ‘Never Say Never’ by Romeo Void, models brazenly stomped through the puddles in a spectrum of Vanhée’s neutrals—burgundy, butter yellow, taupe and vivid red. Outerwear ranged from structured leather zip-up coats and cropped bombers to oversized blazers with faux fur collars and relaxed trenches. Where her Spring/Summer 2024 offering took a more relaxed turn with modular pieces and breezy tailoring, this season carries a different kind of bold. Snugger, edgier silhouettes and layers felt sharp, intentional and very polished, with every monochromatic look evidently finessed to the last detail. Speaking of edge, gunmetal studding appeared on skirts, jackets and harnessed ribbed knits, while chain-like embroidery adorned silk dresses. Not quite punk but more elevated.

And because this is Hermès, accessories naturally drew the eye—although they were displayed with subtlety. Mini bowlers clung to the body, suspended off waistbelts while slouchy totes and Birkins were held closely on their sides. Elsewhere, leather and metal rings were found stacked on hands.

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