Name something more romantic than a bunch of roses. Nope? Thought not. But while we’re all for a beautiful bouquet of flowers, there’s a better way to enjoy the benefits of the world’s most romantic bloom, and that’s by putting them in your perfume. Although there are hundreds of types of rose around the world, it’s the Taif rose, grown in the mountainous region of Saudi Arabia, that has become one of the most in-demand ingredients in perfumery. Thanks to the Taif rose’s distinctive scent, brands including Guerlain, Lancôme, Carolina Herrera and Amouage have all chosen the pretty pink petals to fill their perfumes. With the high altitude, mild climate, fertile topsoil and plentiful groundwater, Taif’s environment is the perfect setting for growing its precious rose.
To celebrate the fragrant flower and its role in perfumery, the first-ever Taif Roses Festival Forum was held earlier this month, bringing together industry experts and enthusiasts from around the world, including two of Saudi’s most influential female perfumers. In this exclusive interview shared with GRAZIA Middle East, Nouf Al Qahtani, the first email Saudi perfume designer and founder of NSHQ, and Sara Al Dahlawi – certified Saudi perfumer and fragrance expert – talk all things scent. From how they began their careers in fragrance to the process of creating new perfumes and the memories that smelling the Taif rose brings, this is what they had to say about Saudi perfume and their inspirations.
As a Saudi nose, what inspired you to pursue a career in fragrance?
Nouf: My mother and father. They used to love perfumes. My mum loved filling the house with bakhoor, and her taste was very French. My father loves oud and oils. I was raised in a house with people always saying, “Where is this perfume from?” and “ I traveled and got this perfume”, so it was something I always wondered about. I used to fill small containers with their fragrances during my school days. When people asked me, “What perfume are you wearing?” I would say, “I don’t know, it’s from home.” I didn’t want anyone to know what scent I wore. I grew up and became a collector, and then I realised I had a nose because I can indicate scents very quickly.
Sara: Since I was a child, I’ve always been fascinated by different scents. I used to sneak into my mother’s room and use her perfumes. When I was 10 years old, my father passed away. He kept a tissue in his jacket which had a scent, and until now, I still have this tissue. As time passed, I started collecting perfumes and exploring raw materials. I was able to find the scent that was on his tissue so I could smell it every time I missed him. From here, I became obsessed, started my studies and decided to have a career change at 40 years old.
How do you go about creating a new scent?
Nouf: My approach is always about being timely. Appropriate timing, places and trends really play a big role for me. This year, I realised that consumers love iris. A year ago, it was sandalwood. Before that, it was powder, and so on. The perfume market is all about what’s trendy, just like fashion. My approach is to create a perfume that suits my target audience and the different segments in my community. I’m also very up to date with perfumers and follow their news to forecast and predict trends. The secret is in the supply. I am very selective about where I choose my notes from, or how much to put in. Not every combination of patchouli, flower, amber, or musk smells the same. My perfumes are like my sign, Gemini. The smell changes with time, and I work on formulating the best combinations.
Sara: I’ve created five fragrances. Three of them were inspired by my studies in Grasse and Paris, and another one followed when I went to AlUla for the first time. The last one was during my graduation project on my journey to becoming a certified Saudi perfumer. I wanted the scent to combine both Saudi and French cultures.
What role does fragrance play in Saudi culture?
Nouf: It is a huge market with so much potential. It’s been a growing market since the pandemic, as studies have shown. The evidence for that is that we are attracting more international brands to open here. There’s no such thing as too much perfume for Saudis!
Sara: It plays a huge role in our culture. From using incense “bakhoor” in our houses when welcoming guests, to gifting oud, we always love to smell good.
What memories does the smell of Taif roses conjure up for you?
Nouf: I have a memory from 2017 of going to a rose garden for the first time and it was very inspiring. After that, I started searching for more gardens with roses. The Taif rose implanted the love in me and not the other way around. The smell of the rose with the greenery is truly something we miss in the city. It reminds me of the times I used to go outside and play as a child.
Sara: I actually associate it with a lot of childhood memories. I’m originally from Makkah, but I lived in Jeddah. When I was a child, my family used to vacation a lot in Taif and I remember buying Taif rose oils and using the “mukhalat”, which is quite different from perfumes.
