Chanel brought us together in Paris once more this week for a beautiful celebration of Métiers d’Art the maison so nobly preserves. When we think of les petit mains that make these precious pieces, we imagine the spindles and elves of our childhood fairytales, hidden away in fabled, faraway workshops.
However the location and achievement of le19M was a striking statement about Chanel’s commitment and vision to protect and propel the Métiers d’Art far into the future. Designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti, le19M is located in 19th arrondissement of Paris and named after one of the emblematic numbers of the maison now houses the embroiderers Lesage and Atelier Montex, the goldsmith Goossens, the hatter Maison Michel, the feather worker Lemarié, the pleater Lognon, and the shoemaker Massaro.
According to Virginie Viard, “It’s a vast, very open space, with a façade adorned with threads of white concrete, a garden, beautiful walkways, and a large gallery where exhibitions will also be held.”
Before the show, small groups of guests by models wearing looks from the collection experienced the ateliers to discover the world and the exceptional savoir-faire of these Houses. The Goosens and Atelier Montex workshops I attended – meeting the master goldsmiths and expert embroiderers – revealed the skills, storytelling and pride lovingly woven into the story of Chanel, and also a renewed hope for the next generation of artisans.
For me Virginie’s collection was a masterclass in making the Métiers d’Art modern. My favourite looks all shared an ease, and an energy, colour, sparkle, texture and movement, resolutely representing the contemporary woman.
In Virginie’s own words, this collection is “very metropolitan yet sophisticated, with tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery in coloured beads by Lesage, voluminous purple or royal blue knit Bermuda short-outfits, and casual coats worn open. Many of the embroideries are inspired by the structure of the building itself, such as those by Montex, which are very graphic and in silver sequins.”
At the welcome cocktail at The Ritz, I was told, “Let Chanel surprise you.” And a performance of ‘90s hits by legendary French rapper MC Solaar at the after-show dinner certainly succeeded.
More than just a show, every encounter with Maison Chanel becomes a magical experience that meets you at the point of your own personal journey with the House. This was a moment, like so many others, that sought to deepen my understanding, love and respect for the universe and share the story of the house with the world.
