Dolce & Gabbana has taken a bold new direction with its vivid Fall 2021 collection, inspired by the 90s. Although it harked back to a significant era in the house’s history, the virtual presentation marked a considerable departure from Dolce & Gabbana’s usual sartorial fare – which traditionally tends towards black lace, leopard print and elegant florals. The accompanying hair and makeup looks also broke audacious new ground for the luxury house, while referencing the cosmetic pillars which have become synonymous with Dolce & Gabbana’s recognisable brand of beauty.
Lead makeup artist and industry veteran Pat McGrath provided the perfect pair of hands to imagine, buff and blend such a nostalgic vision into a covetable, wearable beauty look. After all, the British icon made an name for herself on the international stage during the 90s, becoming known for her creative approach to makeup and dauntless devotion to brazen brights amidst a period that was renowned for downplaying the presence of makeup.
McGrath’s evocative roots were evident throughout each and every one of the unique beauty looks seen at the show, including highlighter-hued liner and bold lip colours in shocking shades of pink, teal and crimson.
Just as it was with the refreshed collection, Dolce & Gabbana’s house codes were also visible throughout the striking makeup looks. Although the colourful aesthetic was somewhat reminiscent of an old school funhouse, the classic techniques employed – such as cat-eye liner and matte red lipstick – felt familiar, albeit with a few vibrant twists.
The hair, which was led by Guido Palau, also seemingly sought inspiration from a rainbow brite-laden moodboard, with models’ hair coloured with abandon in fiery reds, oranges, aquas, purples and pinks. The end result was a technicolour degustation for the rouge-starved masses; one that felt both sentimental and futuristic at once.
To soak it all in was akin to an energetic shot in the arm, a little hit of optimism throughout what many would identify as a period of conservative cosmetic use. Perhaps McGrath, teamed with the magic of Palau, will once again inject her spirited makeup philosophy back into the beauty zeitgeist after a lengthy stretch of pandemic-induced austerity.