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In a world where the confines of generative artificial intelligence models are ever expanding, what would you ask a seemingly omnipresent source of knowledge if you had a chance?
Of course, when you’re in the Danish capital for Copenhagen Fashion Week at the GANNI closing show of the Spring/Summer 2024 season, the answer is apparent.
What are the best areas to shop in Copenhagen? How should I style my new GANNI butterfly bag? How do I get a ticket to the exclusive after-party happening at Apollo Bar?
What isn’t so obvious, is how GANNI would deliver the answers: by an artificial voice emanating from trees lining the runway. This is how GANNI’s SS24 finalé show started, with GANNI girls asking an exclusive art-lead AI model questions from the front row.
“This season we were talking about AI and where it’s going,” GANNI’s creative director, Ditte Reffstrup, told GRAZIA.
“Recently, it feels like something else to panic about, because it’s so far from my world. But I was thinking about AI’s potential for good, about how it can be a part of a bright future. So the collection is in many ways inspired by a sharper, more machine-like feeling and something natural, human and soft.”
This translated into a turbo-charged collection centred in a smorgasbord of references, like something the internet’s algorithm might serve you if you searched ‘How to become a GANNI girl?’
Set in the alternative Vestobro region, an area that formerly served as the city’s red light district, Reffstrup challenged the hypersonic speed of the internet with her fast-paced collection.
“Our show locations are always super important to us, this season we really wanted to find somewhere quintessential to Copenhagen,” Reffstrup explained.
“When we realised that the historic exhibition space “Øksenhallen” was an option for the first time in 10+ years, I was instantly in love. I wanted to create a white open and light-filled space for the show, like a blank canvas. It’s an iconic cultural spot next to the Meatpacking District, a melting pot of art, food, people, and of course, some of the best parties the city has ever seen.” (More on that later).
On this blank canvas, Reffstrup splattered the labels’ signature Scandi 2.0 zeal. The collection opened with supermodel Paloma Elsesser being greeted by the AI. Not your traditional welcome, but one apt for Elsesser’s return to Danish runways.
“You look great!” Quipped the AI. “Everyone here loves you, Copenhagen loves you, we’ve created a show for you based on the GANNI girls’ favourite songs. So, Paloma, let’s go: destination unknown.”
In the era of the internet, it certainly feels like the end game is unfamiliar. So, to quell anxieties fuelled by an innate precariousness, GANNI presented something recognised yet future-proof.
“SS24 is GANNI to the max, we’ve pushed ourselves to elevate the parts of our DNA that truly define us as a brand,” Reffstrup explained. “We played around with contrasts, combining our wild fearless side with a Little House On The Prairie feel.”
This bucolic ‘rock’n’roll style was apparent in the styling. Floral black lace layered over sky-blue satin-formed button-down maxi dresses and shirts, which when paired with ‘speed dealer’ sunglasses contrasted the classically feminine shape. This piece, according to Reffstrup “encapsulates the GANNI spirit right now”.
“The sequins were created using a new fabric innovation from our Fabrics of the Future initiative called Algreen, which turns seaweed and agricultural waste into plastic-free, recyclable sequins. I don’t think it gets more “gardening granny punk” than that!”
Nature, in all forms, was the sartorial mode. Cottagecore knits were more sheer than sensible. An unexpected design collaboration with New Balance encouraged wearers to “take things slow”, as per the official campaign illustration.
Yet, the collection was slightly off-kilter, especially in the look where a red knit crop and checkered mini skirt sat atop of a white floral dress. But it’s this mode that makes GANNI one of the most successful Scandi success stories.
“We design with a certain energy in mind that can be interpreted by anyone, anywhere. It’s such a dream to see as many different people wear our clothes in their own way, and that’s what our goal is when we create,” Reffstrup added
“GANNI has always had its interpretation of what Scandi fashion is. When we first started it was either very boho chic or very minimalist, neither reflected the way me and my friends dressed.
“So with GANNI we introduced more colour, more fun and more contrast and ended up with a kind of Scandi 2.0 style. Generally, though, Scandi style is laidback and effortless but always ready for a dinner that suddenly turns into a wild night out!”
And that’s exactly how the Spring/Summer 2024 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week ended. After a mammoth week, including a resplendent soirée with Pandora and Ashley Park, solo dinners at wanders around the city and typing until all hours of the night, GANNI closed the season with a party to be remembered. (But, in the interest of taking things slow and savouring a life lived offline, I’ve omitted to share the details about what went down on the dance floor with you.)
We’ll leave it to Reffstrup herself to summarise the closing thoughts of the show, and in turn the season: “We felt we wanted to make Copenhagen proud with the collection. This city, the Copenhagen girls, have always been the beating heart of GANNI. Copenhagen is where our heart is. Always will be.” You can’t get more Scandi than that.
