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What is often ignored in trend reporting is that nostalgia is far from a new concept, and one of the greatest examples of this is in the expansive influence of 1920s fashion on the 1970s. Harkening back to a more rebellious sense of ease after the futurism boom of the 1960s, it produced a ‘Glam Rock’ aesthetic that married liberation with a taste for glitz. Exploring this moment in time, Virginie Viard realises this exquisite meeting of eras with CHANEL’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection.
As we gleaned from the show’s teaser, which featured mesmerising footage of Les Planches de Deauville from the 1966 film A Man and a Woman, the Normandy seaside set the scene for the runway—artistically, anyway, as the show itself was held in Paris. To brush up on some history, Deauville is the coastal resort where Gabrielle Chanel opened her second boutique in 1913. A place where holidayers could shop her millinery and, eventually, where she introduced luxurious casual clothing more suited to leisure and sport, it stands as a symbol of her pioneering spirit.
“Deauville is where everything started for the House…It’s where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel,” said Viard in her shownotes. “This story is very close to my heart.”
Perhaps that’s why this collection was infused with a Cruise-like je ne sais quoi.
With each model equipped with an up-turned wide-brimmed sun hat, printed silk scarves and knee-high platform boots reminiscent of David Bowie, the collection perfectly captured the beguile of a winter sojourn. Chunky sailor sweaters and knits featuring the landscapes of Deauville alternated with silk blouses, herringbone prints, low-cut tops, roomy jumpsuits, and delicate negligees that sat amongst boxy tweed jackets and relaxed, robe-style overcoats. ‘Bohemia by the sea’, if you will.
A vibrant spectrum of colours included pastel shades of pink, mauve, orange, and pale blue, taken from the ever-changing colours of the Deauville sky, along with chocolate brown and gold lamé. Unexpected colour pairings and clashing prints gave way to a sense of autonomy in dressing, as well as the contrast of hyper-feminine details with more masculine silhouettes—a trademark of CHANEL.
With more than a century of fables to look back on, Viard’s traversal of the past is a mighty feat that she continues to execute with a modern savoir-faire. Touching on a profound moment in time while bringing together CHANEL’s enduring ties to film and its role in changing the course of fashion, Viard’s Fall/Winter 2024 offering is a masterful play on connections.
