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There’s something satisfying about the details we barely notice when getting dressed. From the flash of a cuff beneath a jacket sleeve to the glint of a stud to the way a belt gathers fabric at the waist, these details breathe life into an outfit. For his Spring/Summer 2027 show, Christopher Esber zoomed in on these small gestures, turning familiar finishing touches into headline statements.
Presented beneath an oval skylight in an underground Paris theatre—across leopard-print carpet, no less—the collection made a convincing case for paying closer attention to the details.
A sense of subversion ran through the collection, particularly in Esber’s elongated tailoring, where cuffs multiplied and burst from the sleeves of sharply cut jackets, and in A-line skirts pulled apart with high splits and sweeping drapes. Belts slipped beyond their usual boundaries, extending past the waist to create new shapes. Original studs—sourced from unused 1950s stock—and oversized buckles added a satisfying weight to the otherwise fluid pieces, as well as Western inflection to Esber’s contemporary sensibility.
Always one to experiment with materiality, menswear codes also slipped into Esber’s textural play, where a printed pocket square inspired a diamond motif blown up into bodices and a dress rendered in ceramic-coated lace. Sheath-like tops were slashed open to reveal fine georgette beneath, while collars and lapels followed suit, morphing across dresses and tailoring.
Elsewhere, lingerie became part of the construction rather than something hidden away. Bra straps and bandeaux were purposefully integrated into garments, while lace trims and transparent jersey traced graphic lines across the body. Working with artist Anna Studeli, Esber also translated collage works onto satin-backed PVC, further twisting the familiar.
