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Beauty moments from past Chanel runways

French beauty, like its fashion, is characterised by a luxurious simplicity. But just as its fashion extends far beyond Bretons and berets, so too does its approach to beauty diverge from myths. With its dedication to nurturing fresh talent, CHANEL has introduced its groundbreaking initiative, Cometes Collective, to celebrate and bolster a wave of emerging talent shaping this shift.

With three trailblazers handpicked by CHANEL to guest pave their way, the vibrance of French beauty has never been more evident.

Chatting to GRAZIA, CHANEL makeup artist Filomena Natoli explains what we’re getting wrong with ‘French beauty’ and what it really means to channel this energy.

“I think the perspective has shifted from a super polished beauty,” she says. “French girls are confident and busy, and that translates to a more [individualistic] look.”

For the first of its three Cometes Collective releases, the Spring 2024 makeup collection plays on an abundance of colour, courtesy of Valentina Li. Lauded for her bold creations and armed with her iconic blue bob, Li’s partnership sees colour fearlessly yielded.

“Embracing colour is an instant mood elevator, and now is the perfect time to do so as there is colour out there to suit everyone,” says Natoli. “It’s not just for the bold or ‘statement makers’ but can be integrated easily into any beauty look.”

Even if you lean towards a paired-back look, Natoli encourages experimentation. “If you lean towards minimalism, subtle placement is key,” she says. “For example, a bold colour of your chosen liner simply wrapped around the eye or a gentle wash of colour over the eyelids finished with fresh, luminous skin.”

Yes, French beauty has long been romanticised for an effortless joie de vivre, but when we look back on some of our favourite CHANEL runway beauty moments, it’s clear that this has never meant neglecting colour. Steeped in heritage with an unwavering vision, the house’s approach to beauty has always embodied a spirit of self-expression.

And with the new Spring 2024 range saturating our moodboards with washes of colour and shine, it’s the perfect chance to recreate some of these iconic looks.

Eye of the beholder

PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 11: Alek Wek walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear Sprig/Summer 2002 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on October 11, 2001 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

If this look isn’t already embedded in your memory, let us introduce you to the understated glamour that was the Spring/Summer 2002 runway.

Subverting the usual top-heavy approach for one that focuses on the under-eye, the result was a fresh (but still user-friendly) way to wear colour. For this season, we recommend applying this method to coral tones for a summery feel. This can easily be recreated with a narrow brush or your fingertips.

CHANEL LES 4 OMBRES EYESHADOW PALETTE IN ‘CORAL TREASURE’, $112 SHOP NOW

Space age

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 07: Natalia Vodianova walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2003-2004 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week on July 7, 2003 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

This ethereal look from the Fall/Winter 2003 Haute Couture show may seem bold, but it’s a simple one to copy with the right tools. As Natoli recommends, the Baume Essentiel stick is a multi-use wonder product for achieving a pearly shine.

“I am a huge lover of Baume Essentiel in general, but I particularly love the limited-edition shade, ‘Mermaid Glow’, and how the iridescent tones react with the skin,” she says.

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CHANEL BAUME ESSENTIEL MULTI-USE STICK IN ‘MERMAID GLOW’, $74 SHOP NOW

Smokeshow

ROME, ITALY – DECEMBER 01: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Metiers d’Art 2015/16 Fashion Show at Cinecitta on December 1, 2015 in Rome, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D’aprano/Getty Images)

A bold smokey eye, like this one from the 2015 Metiers d’Art show, has a timeless allure and can instil instant confidence. But to ensure yours doesn’t fall flat, add depth to the rest of the look with a dynamic highlighter like the Lumière de L’océan Illuminating Powder.

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CHANEL LUMIÈRE DE L’OCÉAN ILLUMINATING POWDER, $105 SHOP NOW

Peachy keen

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 05: Quannah Chasinghorse walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 05, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images)

For those who prefer a ‘no-makeup makeup’ approach, a vibrant peach tint on the lips, like this look pulled straight from the Fall/Winter 2024 runway, offers the same mood-boosting benefits of a stain.

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CHANEL ROUGE COCO BAUME IN ‘ANEMONE’, $63 SHOP NOW

Outside the lines

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 26: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Spring Summer 2016 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 26, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)

If a graphic eyeliner like this art from the Spring/Summer 2016 show, is more of your speed, then might we suggest swapping out the black for an electric blue? Its rich tones have a uniquely calming effect, and the colour is surprisingly versatile.

CHANEL STYLO YEUX WATERPROOF EYELINER IN ‘BLEU ABYSSE’, $50 SHOP NOW

Before sunset

PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 04: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on October 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

The latest iteration of the iconic eyeshadow quad is a no-brainer for recreating this seasonless sunset look from the Spring/Summer 2017 show.

Les 4 Ombres in Rivage is a great palette that offers neutral shades and a satiny turquoise shadow for when the mood for colour strikes,” says Natoli. “It’s the best of both worlds.”

CHANEL LES 4 OMBRES EYESHADOW PALETTE IN ‘RIVAGE’, $112 SHOP NOW

Mixed-up monochrome

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 23, 2018 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

When playing up the monochrome look with one tone, up the ante with some range in texture. Like this look from the Spring/Summer 2018 Haute Couture show, a glossy lip can bring a blushed eye and cheek to life.

CHANEL ROUGE ALLURE LAQUE IN ‘SEA SHELL’, $72 SHOP NOW