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New York Fashion Week’s fall-winter 2021 started with a bang last night—providing a much-needed dose of sartorial innovation and kicking off our second socially-distanced Fashion Month season in style. Much like last season, the NYFW schedule is spread over a full month, with digital, live-streamed shows and virtual showrooms scattered outside the usual six-day calendar. Some bigger brands have chosen not to show, while others (like The Row) dropped their collections a few weeks ago.
Wrapping your head around the full schedule may prove a little challenging, but one thing we do know is that the season will be crammed full with new collections from a vast array of exciting new talent. Here, we document the five shows not to miss—from the sustainable designer beloved by Jill Biden, to the Kanye West protégé who has launched her own label.
Markarian
Markarian founder Alexandra O’Neill has been cultivating a growing fan base since her label launched in 2017, but an endorsement from FLOTUS Dr. Jill Biden—who commissioned the sustainability-focused designer to create the cornflower blue look she wore to her husband’s inauguration—meant all eyes were on her elegant, eveningwear-heavy fall collection when it debuted last night.
Kim Shui
Shui’s deconstructed, Noughties-inspired printed pieces have found a cult following among the A-list, counting everyone from Cardi B and Kylie Jenner to Hailey Bieber and Emily Ratajkowski among their fans. Catch the brand’s fall collection—likely to stir a fair amount of hysteria among Shui’s 150,000 Instagram followers—on Wednesday, February 17th at 5:30 PM EST.
The Black In Fashion Council Showroom
The Cut‘s incoming editor-in-chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and fashion consultant Sandrine Charles launched the Black in Fashion Council in June, as a body committed to “represent and secure the advancement of Black individuals in fashion and beauty.” This season, BIFC is hosting a three-day virtual showroom that will highlight 16 emerging Black designers: House of Aama, Edas, Marrisa Win, Third Crown, Beads Byaree, Chelsea Paris, Chuks Collins, Kendra DuPlantier, Whensmokeclears, Michel Men, Lola Ade, Nicole Benfield, Nicole Shante, Come Back as a Flower, Label by Three and Local European.
Maisie Wilen
Parsons graduate Maisie Schloss began her career working under Kanye West at Yeezy, eventually becoming the first recipient of West’s incubator grant. The resulting label—Maisie Wilen—has been a roaring success, embraced by the Kardashian family (including Stormi Webster) and being stocked everywhere from Net-a-Porter to Harvey Nichols. Catch Maisie’s much-awaited second NYFW show on Monday, February 15th at 3PM EST.
Collina Strada
Collina Strada is the brainchild of designer Hillary Taymour, who sees the brand as both a clothing label and a platform for being radically political. The pieces are almost entirely upcycled—many made with hand-dyed soft cottons, finished in bold, oversized silhouettes—and Taymour never shied away from tackling issues like racism and disability inclusion in fashion. Catch the brand’s fall 2021 show at 11:30AM EST on Wednesday, February 17th.
