London Fashion Week 2021
LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: (EDITORS NOTE: Image has been converted to black and white.) In this photo released on February 19, 2021, a model walks the runway during the Mark Fast show during London Fashion Week February 2021 at MAGAZINE Ordnance Crescent on February 15, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images)

Of all the fashion week majors, London is often known to be the most avant-garde. Perhaps it’s the history of punk and resistance or perhaps its an antithesis to the aristocracy, or perhaps UK designers are just never short of boundary-pushing creativity. Whichever it is, the collections from new, upcoming, and boutique labels this week have been as thought provoking as ever.

Given their fingers on pulses, it’s fair to assume that the ideas we’re seeing via their digital and runway platforms will be indicative of the cuts, shapes and trends we’ll be vying for over the next couple of seasons. So just what should we be making room for in our (hopefully-sweatpants-free) fall winter 2021 wardrobes?

ROOMY, SLOUCHY VOLUME
Although Labrum London is technically menswear, this conscious label (whose clothing is devoid of trend and dedicated to the narrative of West Africans) offered plenty of silhouette inspiration in their utilitarian fall winter collection. Trousers of an oversized nature have been gathering momentum in the last couple of seasons, however styled here in a street-wise sophistication, this look raised whole new reason to gravitate toward it.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 12: In this image released on February 19, 2021. A model walks the runway during the Labrum London show during London Fashion Week February 2021 at St Giles In The Fields on February 12, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/BFC/Getty Images)

ANTOINETTE COUTURE
Cosplay is once again finding place in the world of ready to wear. Bora Aksu, the Turkish, London-based designer drew inspiration from the French Revolution for his fall winter faux-runway presentation. While the aesthetic drew heavily from the era, it offered a dramatic escapism we’re seeing more and more of this fashion season. Gowny dresses with busy applique and lacy overlays, even tutu-tulle and embroidered hosiery finished with solid boots offer a sort of Crucible homage. Super fun, anti-minimalism.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 16: In this photo released on February 19, 2021, models walk the runway during the BORA AKSU show during London Fashion Week February 2021 at Tate Britain on February 16, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/BFC/Getty Images)

UPSCALED FATIGUES
Punk in the age of pandemic makes perfect sense. A dystopian uniform for our mood following a year of upheaval. Mark Fast, a veteran of high end London street wear (in particular knitwear), lent his prowess to slick combat couture this time. Bold puffas, bodysuits, and sock boots, all with iterations of camo, seem apt for the season. A blend of utility and sexy 90s mega-trends (the micro hem, the macro boot) is a comfy return to renegade roots.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: In this image released February 19, a model walks the runway during filming of the Mark Fast digital presentation during London Fashion Week February 2021 at MAGAZINE on February 15, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images)

SCULLY BUSINESS
It’s likely that 2021 will be the suit’s most interpreted season. Non-specific in both gender and destination (they have, for a while, no longer been relegated to the office), its look is now based on minutiae rather than genre as a whole. Eftychia Karamolagou’s eponymous label is well regarded for tailoring and knitwear, and this season she’s offering a slim-fit, bootleg, on-the-job variety that seems to harken back to late-90s TV-detective uniform – Gillian Anderson in The X-Files, or Angie Harmon in Law & Order, perhaps. But it’s the flat-front, double French fly trouser for us.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 19: A model poses during the EFTYCHIA presentation during London Fashion Week February 2021 on February 19, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by Polly Brown/EFTYCHIA/Getty Images)

DISCO DRESS-UPS
Up-and-coming label, Sabirah by Deborah Latouche, posed the idea of hope, healing, and happiness for her fall winter presentation. Nodding to the 70s in head-to-toe silk and gold-on-gold ensembles, such joie de vivre is a welcome flip from last year’s ominous overtones. Make room for decadent fabrics (which Latouche repurposes from existing materials), languid shapes and some much needed disco therapy.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 08: In this image released on February 19, 2021, a model poses during Sabirah by Deborah Latouche DiscoveryLab during London Fashion Week February 2021 at West Acton Community Centre on February 08, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by Kate Green/BFC/Getty Images)

RE-SHAPED SUITING
As mentioned above, to cast suiting into one category these days would be like saying this season dresses or jeans or pants are in fashion. The suit family is ever-expanding, so we need to be more specific. Maison Bent, the London-based label of McQueen alum, Shanna Bent, is a self-described sustainable luxury brand. While sustainability is probably the most important future fashion trend, her take on traditional cuts is also progressive. Expect to see her ilk a lot this season – styles with pop-outs and A-symmetrical cuts and unique fastenings, the repurposed suit might just be the fashion item of the year.

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 19: A model poses at the Maison Bent presentation during London Fashion Week February 2021 on February 19, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by Kid Circus/Getty Images)
thoughts?