New York Fashion Week paves the way for the shows that follow in London, Milan, and Paris, but the Big Apple wasn’t first in line until Helmut Lang upended tradition in 1998. The designer snubbed Paris and chose to show his spring collection in New York six weeks ahead of schedule. Other designers followed suit, and the city has set the season’s tone among what’s known as “The Big Four” ever since. Ahead are some of NYFW’s most memorable trends from the past three decades.
SIMPLICITY RULES
After the ‘80s maximalist styles, designers like Helmut Lang, Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs ushered in a new era of chic and sent more minimalist looks down the runway.
SHINING STAR
Wunderkind designer Todd Oldham dazzled the fashion industry with his bold prints and kitschy rainbow styles that supermodels like Tyra Banks and Helena Christensen rocked.
OH, BABY
Anna Sui’s iconic babydoll dress had many iterations, and a replica of the one Naomi Campbell wore is now on display at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
BREAKING THE MOLD
Genre-bending designer Stephen Sprouse gave the 1980s downtown New York aesthetic a high-fashion makeover with his neon- and graffiti-emblazoned collections. He was one of the first designers to work with a transgender model, frequently collaborating with Teri Toye, and Blondie singer Debbie Harry was a favorite muse.
ON FIRE
Once dubbed the “hottest new designer,” native New Yorker Isaac Mizrahi burst onto the scene in 1988, and his many model pals, like Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss, graced his runways.
FAME & FASHION
The early 2000s marked the rise of celebrities on the catwalk. Channing Tatum walked for Sean John, Lil’ Kim modeled for Baby Phat, Caitriona Balfe strutted down Nicole Miller’s runway, and actress Scarlett Johansson opened the Imitation of Christ show in a look inspired by a young Marilyn Monroe.
GOLDEN GIRLS
From the late 1990s into the early 2000s, the shows glowed with gilded gowns from labels such as Ralph Lauren and Richard Tyler.
