Miuccia Prada has always famously designed for Miu Miu with her younger self in mind. And for its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, she puts forward a study in femininity—not as a fixed definition but as an evolving conversation. Staged within the hypostyle of the Palais d’Iéna, its industrial grandeur wrapped in swathes of yellow moiré, the setting itself became a statement: femininity, like space, can be redefined, reimagined, and recontextualised.
Silhouettes this season were sculptural yet fluid and nostalgic, built around the body rather than willing it into compliance. Curves were shaped and suggested, folded into fabric or structured beneath, forming garments that hovered beside the wearer, independent yet deeply connected. Tailoring was deliberately undone—blazers draped off the shoulders, their form deconstructed, while dresses seemed to slip away, exposing glimpses of skin.
The interplay of lingerie and outerwear has been a major theme throughout Miu Miu’s recent collections and once again at the heart of the current season. Delicate bras were reimagined as a structural force, their contours sculpting the body. Satin slips and bias-cut skirts referenced intimate dressing but were layered with everyday ease, blurring references from the 1930s and early 00s. Pointelle knits—suggestive yet soft—offered a whisper of sensuality beneath oversized coats. Furry stoles, brooches, and cascading necklaces reappeared as old-world emblems of femininity, evoking an almost costume-box iteration of ‘grown up’ style that plays to a deep nostalgia.
A restrained palette—felted wool, silk knit, cotton satin—emphasized texture over excess, reinforcing Prada’s belief in invention through simplicity. Yet, vivid orange, green, red and purple had their moments. The result? A collection that championed the tactile, the sensual, and the intellectual in equal measure, exploring the complexities of modern womanhood and its many expressions. Miu Miu’s woman this season was both delicate and defiant, embellished and understated, embracing the contradictions that make femininity so endlessly compelling. The final looks—underon silhouettes revealing layers beneath—felt like a quiet rebellion, a reminder that what is exposed is just as powerful as what remains unseen.
