It appeared that a hush fell over Paris’ Ground Control during Marine Serre’s FW24 collection presentation. “Could it be? The Kate Moss?” is what attendees undoubtedly thought as look nine—a crisp white oversized button-down with laser-cut flowers layered between a leather black shirt-jacket and matching pantaboots adorned with Serre’s signature crescent moon motif—took to the runway.

Sadly, Serre did not tap the legendary supermodel for her return to the official Paris Fashion Week womenswear schedule. Instead, she ended her temporary hiatus by doing the next best thing: inviting Moss’ infamous doppelgänger, Denise Ohnona. The lookalike had everyone doing a double take in an intentional move to draw audiences’ eyes closer to the collection. In doing so, Serre fulfilled her hopes for the collection by fostering a sense of intimacy and community.

“I really tried to find a place in Paris where you can still feel that sense of connection,” Serre explained of the open-air market she chose to stage her collection presentation. Similar to the concept presented by Stella McCartney during SS24 —though she didn’t need any celebrity imitations this season with the remaining living Beatles, Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr, comprising her front row—Serre invoked a street style microcosm.

A record fair slung Marine Serre vinyl, while florists and a pizza stand delivered botanicals and slices à la Jeremy Allen White and Rosalia’s Los Angeles date. As with any vendor-led marketplace, it was the characters inhabiting the space that proved most bountiful. Serre didn’t skimp on portion sizing either, serving a delicious helping of wearable daywear. Chic clothes to run errands in (and possibly run a bar dry wearing) was the modus operandi.

This was executed in vegan leather trenches featuring luxe faux shearling trimming, mesh midis transparent enough to reveal athleisure sets, jersey body-conscious maxis completed by built-in gloves and emblazoned with bedazzled waxing moons, ruched zip-up dresses paired underneath graphic tights, cosy knitwear and cardigans.

Shirting and tailoring were toyed with in monochromatic jacquard textiles or even denim and canvas, but anything too primed or preppy was softened by the appearance of sporty staples including the brand’s first-ever tracksuit. (Which, producing post-pandemic, feels like a rockstar move).

The mid and latter half of the collection took more risks, in heart-pumping fire-engine red minis with protruding bubble skirts and the clash between python and floral prints that appeared towards the end. Keeping within Serre advocating for upcycling, asymmetrically cut lace and snakeskin were pieced together in a bias texture collage for a Y2K, DIY bric-a-brac feel.

An elasticated floral patchwork dress that closed the show further propelled her sustainable methodology. But underneath these techniques lay a philosophy for dressing rooted in accessibility and urban elegance.

Presumably sensing our fatigue for copy-and-paste athletics, a mode for dressing down when performing life admin, Serre has put the chic back in executing chores. Styling the collection with coffee carts and pizza boxes helped customers to visualize the pieces in situ, too. We can only hope this will translate into the wild. The lines for €1 baguettes at the boulangerie will be the barometer on which we judge this collection’s effectiveness. 

County of Milan Bids Farewell to Marcelo Burlon: A Streetwear Pioneer Steps Down

Prada Blooms at Saks Fifth Avenue: A Celebration of Heritage & Modernity

Posh Spice Meets High Street: Victoria Beckham’s Capsule Collection for Mango’s 40th Anniversary is Now Live

Pieces From Vivienne Westwood’s Personal Wardrobe Will Soon Go On Sale

Time To Work On Another Bambino Collection Because Simon Porte Jacquemus Is Now A Father Of Twins

Entering Into Evidence: Everything Taylor Swift Has Worn For Her ‘Tortured Poets Department’ Album So Far