bow shirt
©Photo by Hanna Lassen/Getty Images

Bows arrived on the AW26 runways with unusual persistence. New York opened the conversation, while London, Milan and Paris carried it forward in their own dialect. Jonathan Anderson gave the detail a memorable outing in his debut at Dior. Elsewhere the bow blouse turned up beneath checks at Acne Studios and Chloé. There the season found its particular register. The effect reads as bon ton rather than sweet. A knot of silk at the throat softens a severe jacket without apologizing for it. That balance explains why editors have been circling the piece since spring.

Where the Bow Blouse Came From

Queen Letizia Of Spain

The garment carries a longer history than its prettiness suggests. Tailoring circles call it the tie-neck, and it appeared in the early twentieth century. Women entering offices needed something that answered the men’s necktie without copying it. The ribbon therefore did the work a cravat had done for generations, though in silk instead of stiff linen. Yves Saint Laurent later made it central to his wardrobe for women across the Sixties and Seventies. By the Eighties the piece had turned political. Margaret Thatcher wore it almost as a uniform, pairing soft silk with shoulders cut for authority. A decorative detail consequently became a strategy. Royal wardrobes have kept the habit alive ever since, and both the Princess of Wales and Queen Letizia of Spain return to the style regularly for daytime engagements.

How to Wear a Bow Blouse Now


Contrast governs everything here. Tuck a fluid silk version into straight-leg wool trousers and the proportions settle immediately. A pencil skirt works equally well on weekdays. Straight-leg denim, meanwhile, handles the weekend without fuss. Keep the knot loose rather than tightly tied, since the appeal lies in the drape. Layering helps too. A blazer left open frames the neckline and stops the blouse from taking over.

Checks suit the mood of the season, so a windowpane jacket over a plain bow shirt lands exactly where fall wants to be. Everything else should stay quiet. Worn this way, the blouse makes its case the moment you turn your head, and keeps making it long after you have left the room.